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-   -   Leveling sill in rough opening (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/leveling-sill-rough-opening-176759/)

ovahimba 04-10-2013 12:42 PM

Leveling sill in rough opening
 
I am replacing an old aluminum window (48"x60") with a new vinyl slider with nailing fins. One side of the rough opening has settled and caused the it to bow down on that side. Do I need to level the sill before ordering and installing the window. I was thinking it is the nailing fins that hold the window in place and its not like a door where you are stepping on it all the time.

If it must be leveled before, how would you do it? Press in some bondo with a flat trowel? A new strip of wood? I will be changing the t11 siding as well.

joecaption 04-10-2013 05:25 PM

How far out of level is it?
Not a big deal to shim the window if it's a little bit out but your also going to have to shim the window stool trim or the exposure will be off.
Just make sure to measure on the high side when ordering the window or it's not going to fit.

aobongda.sale 04-10-2013 06:03 PM

Up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

funfool 04-10-2013 06:24 PM

I would want to know why it settled. Is many reasons for this.
And a old leaking window install would be a perfect suspect for some rotten studs or cripples below the sill.
While the window is out, is a perfect time to repair the rotten wood. Of course it could be foundation or something else, and not rot. But I would want to know.

ovahimba 04-10-2013 06:38 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I haven't pulled the window yet but I'm guessing its 3/4 inch down. When the old slider is closed on top corner, its open about an inch on the lower corner, from the tilting of the old window frame.

Some wood got crushed from water seeping in from a old balcony. The window is above and to the right.

ovahimba 04-10-2013 06:52 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I already removed most of the rot when I installed the sliding glass door to the left. To completely remove all those horizontal boards would require redoing the whole side of the house. Here are a couple more photos

hand drive 04-10-2013 08:34 PM

your problem there is the wall jacks for your door opening sit on nothing! see the exposed joists ends next to the jacks, well there should be something under the jacks. the wall plate is cantilevering past the joist a few inches and has settled from the weight of whats above over time. are you able to go under and add reinforcement underneath the wall jacks?

Windows on Wash 04-11-2013 01:51 PM

Wowsers...!!

How many floors above.

hand drive is dead on right.

ovahimba 04-11-2013 02:36 PM

Thanks for the replies. Since those photos were taken, I have added a couple layers of blocking between the joists from the inside to support a deck ledger.

I have a cantelievered upper story and a tile roof over that wall so I have to deal with it as is.

Thurman 04-11-2013 06:07 PM

In the last photo notice the board placed on a bias (45 degree), the one with the three (3) rusty nail heads. This home appears to be pre-1950's or so. That's the way they built them back then. Back then wall jacks sat on nothing, there may not have even been headers for the windows and doorways. Removing all the exterior siding to reveal the framing may not be a bad decision on your part. I have worked on many pre-50's homes in my area and had to remove all the exterior siding on one wall to reveal the framing so I could make a plant to re-inforce materials and to bring them into current code.

hand drive 04-11-2013 10:35 PM

if you have not already attached the deck ledger, adding some metal straps vertically would certainly help to connect the jacks to the structure below. you can get really nice heavy gauge metal strapping in the joist hanger area. nail it with 10d joist hanger nails in the stud and longer nails to the rim band.


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