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Old 04-22-2013, 09:31 PM   #1
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Last Minute Door Questions


Rough opening for a door means the opening framed out and no jamb in place yet right?

What is the rough opening of a 28" solid core door?

Would the jamb for said door be 3/4" thick?

What are the measurements of a 28" solid core door?

Thanks a bunch.

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Old 04-22-2013, 09:52 PM   #2
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http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...h-opening.aspx

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Old 04-22-2013, 10:17 PM   #3
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Would the jamb for a thick solid core door be 3/4", is that standard?
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:27 PM   #4
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Yes, just read that whole thing I posted, it explains everything you need to know.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:04 PM   #5
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nope not everything thanks for the link though.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:09 PM   #6
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what would be the repercussions and challenges of installing a door jamb directly to the stud frame?
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:18 PM   #7
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Ever hear the expression "You learn by your mistakes"?

So...while 3/4" is normal for jamb thickness...which means a 28" door is going to have a rough opening of 29.5"......you really do NOT want to make it exactly 29.5".....unless you can make the rough opening 'exactly' square.....which is not going to happen...you can get real close...but not that close....

So...give yourself at least 1/2"...if not more....that is what shims are made for.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:45 AM   #8
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How a door opening gets framed depends on if it's a supporting wall or not.
This is a none supporting wall.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=4

And this is how a supporting wall is framed.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=6

A simple rule of thumb on a reguler doors rough framing is frame it so it's 2" wider then the doors width and 2" taller.
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:00 PM   #9
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Well the problem is this. I'm building a double wall system and the wall that is already up has a door opening framed in it and I'm putting a wall in front of that, however I cannot just copy the original door opening as the adjacent perpendicular wall has to come out a little past it. So I'm stuck with framing the door directly in an interior corner.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:52 PM   #10
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Would it be unwise to frame the door separate from the rest of the wall then put it up and attach it to the rest of the framed out wall. Thinking it might be easier to make plumb this way and have it nice and level since the basement slab slopes down for the floor drain?

Also, the rough opening for a 28" door is 30" wide no matter if it's pre hung or not right?

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Old 04-23-2013, 10:16 PM   #11
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Anyone?
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:46 AM   #12
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I can see a double wall (party wall), but why the off set in the left corner?
Any reason why this opening can not be reframed over to the right? If not how do you plan on sheetrocking and adding the casing that close to the left wall?
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mijotter View Post
Would it be unwise to frame the door separate from the rest of the wall then put it up and attach it to the rest of the framed out wall. Thinking it might be easier to make plumb this way and have it nice and level since the basement slab slopes down for the floor drain?

Also, the rough opening for a 28" door is 30" wide no matter if it's pre hung or not right?

yes it is.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
I can see a double wall (party wall), but why the off set in the left corner?
Any reason why this opening can not be reframed over to the right? If not how do you plan on sheetrocking and adding the casing that close to the left wall?
What do you mean by off set in the corner?

No I cannot move it over anymore as the water heater, furnace, and support beam all take up the wall.

Well I was thinking of having the stud for the drywall deep enough so that the last layer of drywall would be flush with the jamb/frame of the door for a nice even look...
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:59 PM   #15
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What would be the best way to
"beef up" the frame/jamb on the hinge side to support a heavier door?

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