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-   -   Installing sill pan/flashing for new patio door..? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/installing-sill-pan-flashing-new-patio-door-157393/)

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 09:41 AM

Installing sill pan/flashing for new patio door..?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello,

This weekend I'm going to tackle the installation of my new patio door, and the one thing I'm unsure about is how to do the sill pan/flashing for the new door. It's a "standard" size patio door (forget the dimensions off hand) where the wall is ~3.5" wide (2x4 wall).

I though about purchasing a premade one, but seeing as how nothing ever seems to fit in the first place, I figured making one might just be the best in the end. So, the question I have is how many "layers" and exactly what's needed for the flashing. Could I just use some roof repair/flashing tape for the flashing like this? http://www.homedepot.com/buy/buildin...l#.UFspjT1_UYc Or should I just buy a roll of say 8" wide aluminum flashing and bend/cut it to make an L shape? I would lay one big piece along the length, and then two pieces for the sides, and silicone everything in place.

I'm open to any suggestions. The good thing about this doorway is it sits below an overhang so it usually doesn't get hit with too much water unless it's a bad storm. The door is on the right of the picture (sorry it's not straight on). Thanks!

joecaption 09-20-2012 09:48 AM

The best way is to use one of these. it comes in two pieces so it's fully adjustable.
http://jamsill.com/

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 10:04 AM

Thanks Joe, only problem I have with that is that I can't get it here by this weekend (and they don't have a local dealer).. damn. Should've posted this thread last week.. :p If I was to make the flashing myself out of Al flashing that should do the trick as well right? It's supposed to be a clear weekend, and I need to get it done..

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 10:39 AM

Ok, after some more searching it seems like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_288882-711-5...cor&facetInfo=

might be the best option for me. Peel and stick Al flashing. Thanks Joe for your help!

kwikfishron 09-20-2012 10:52 AM

Yes, you can use the peel and stick. Just make sure that it comes out and down over the deck ledger flashing. You'll need to remove the first deck board to do it right.

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 11:04 AM

Ok sounds good. The deck actually sits ~5" below the threshold, so I should be good to go. If you can see it in the picture, there's a solid piece of wood that runs right below the threshold rather than siding. I guess I can run the Al tape right over the edge of it. While it might not be the prettiest solution, I guess eventually I can paint the exposed edge of the flashing down the road to make it pretty. Thanks!

kwikfishron 09-20-2012 11:15 AM

That lower trim has to come off anyway, I'd still run the flashing all the way down and over the ledger flashing.

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 11:28 AM

Kwik,

Why would I need/want to remove that kickplate/trim under the door opening? That doesn't make any sense to me.. Why can't I just flash over it? I'll take a closer look at it again and get a closer picture. Removing it seems like I'm just making work for myself, especially if it's in good shape..?

kwikfishron 09-20-2012 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewHomeDIYGuy (Post 1013780)
Kwik,

Why would I need/want to remove that kickplate/trim under the door opening?

How are you planning to get the door out?

Please don't tell me your installing the new slider without nail flanges.

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 12:01 PM

Kwik,

I'll get some close up pictures later today and post them. The trim piece/kick board sits flush with the bottom of the door jam, so the door can easily be removed without removing it. The nail flanges are just on the sides and top I thought, which is why I didn't think removing the trim would be necessary..? I'll snap a cpl more pictures and hopefully that'll make things clearer.

Edit: Ah, I realize what you're asking now kwik.. The old door most certainly doesn't have nail flanges on the outside. I realize this is blasphemy to say, but I'm also half wondering if installing the new door with the nail flanges is 100% necessary since the door sits under an overhang. I hate messing w/ siding.. lol

CoconutPete 09-20-2012 12:57 PM

I made my own out of flashing tape or whatever it's called. About 8" wide. Stickiest stuff I've ever worked with.

kwikfishron 09-20-2012 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewHomeDIYGuy (Post 1013794)
Edit: Ah, I realize what you're asking now kwik.. The old door most certainly doesn't have nail flanges on the outside. I realize this is blasphemy to say, but I'm also half wondering if installing the new door with the nail flanges is 100% necessary since the door sits under an overhang. I hate messing w/ siding.. lol

Iíve never seen an aluminum slider without flanges on all sides unless someone had cut them off.

Iím sure there are some here that will say the type of install your proposing is fineÖIím not one of them. Doing it that way youíre completely relying on caulking to keep the water out.

Any external caulking should be looked at as a secondary defense for keeping water away from the frame. Properly installed and flashed external caulking isnít even necessary to keep the water away from the wood.

HomeSealed 09-20-2012 02:52 PM

The peel and stick tape or bending an aluminum pan work fine when executed properly. I've done both... On the flanges, they are not absolutely necessary to have proper mechanical flashing, but you need access and expertise using a brake so that you can bend metal flashing if you go that route. You can do essentially the same exact thing with brake metal as you can with a nailing fin in terms of proper flashing. Ron is correct though that a seal relying only on caulk is highly undesirable and will fail at some point.

joecaption 09-20-2012 05:23 PM

That piece used under the door looks to thick anyway and needs to come off and be replaced with a thinner piece.
It needs to be 3/4, or even 5/4.
If it sticks out behind the doors threshold it will act as a funnel directing water to the sub flooring.
I use vinyl lumber so it never rots or needs painting.

NewHomeDIYGuy 09-20-2012 06:34 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Ok, so here are some closer pics of the door/flashing. These are the original doors from I believe '85. Clearly they weren't flashed/well properly to today's standards. You guys really think the bottom piece of wood needs to go? It almost looks as if the edge of the door rests on it.. It's hard to tell by the pictures but basically there's a j flashing next to the brick moulding, and the brick moulding is caulked on both sides (on the side of the door and the j flashing).


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