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Old 04-12-2010, 09:19 PM   #1
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install used wood french doors


Hello, I just purchased this set of exterior french doors for $75.00 at a local antique mall. I want to install them in an uncased opening in my basement separating 2 rooms (interior). The current opening which is drywalled) is 61 1/4 inches. The doors are 29 1/2 inches. the height of opening is 82 inches, i know Ill have to add a 2 x 4 or something to bring the header down a bit.

Questions: Do I use the existing hinges still on the doors?

Do I buy pre-made door casing or make my own and trim it out

Is the opening going to work? or do I have to remove drywall to gain more clearence

If I do use exsisting hinges Do you prop door up align and draw hinges on casing to be chisled or routed?

Thanks



Im a master of none, but a Jack of all

I build furniture, but haven't hung doors from scratch.

Whats the best way to go here?
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Last edited by subvet; 04-12-2010 at 09:38 PM. Reason: made mistake
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:58 PM   #2
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install used wood french doors


Simply buy an interior door frame and fit it to the doors. Use the hinges that are on the doors.
Ron

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Old 04-12-2010, 11:04 PM   #3
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After you follow Rons suggestion -----use 2 1/2 " screws to hang the heavy doors--you want screw long enough to go through the jamb into the framing--Mike--
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:23 PM   #4
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" Simply buy an interior door frame and fit it to the doors. Use the hinges that are on the doors.
Ron "------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for the reply Ron & Mike, so that sounds like you lay out the frame on the garage floor, and place the doors in frame, trace the hinge and route recess for the hinges, then remove hinge pins and realign frame in rough out opening, and then hange doors with shiming to get correct gap? does that sound right? It seems like a real plan if thats what I think you mean. Also I would use the longer screws because of the weight lof the doors like Mike said. It would be a lot easier to locate hinge recesses that way rather that after the frame was installed.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:14 PM   #5
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I cut the hinges into the side jambs before assembling the three jamb sections.
lay the door onto a sawhorse so the hinges hang down.----

from the top of the door--measure to the top of the hinge.

From the rabbit(notch For the top jamb) measure down using your hinge number and add 1/8 inch.

Grab some clamps--clamp the jamb side to the loose hinge plates--using your mark at the top hinge.

Check --make sure you have really taken the numbers from the top of the door--does it look right?

Next using a sharp pencil mark the hinge side location.

I use a router to cut the hinge pockets--remove one hinge--set router guide and half inch bit using the old door as a guide.
Use the loose hinge to set the cutter depth.

If you wish to hand chisel the butts use a marking gauge or tri-square to draw the bottom mark for the
cut.

I have extremely steady hands and can successfully route the butts using the router depth guide.

You may wish to clamp a couple of speed squares to the jambs as side stops.

---Mike----
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subvet View Post
Hello, I just purchased this set of exterior french doors for $75.00 at a local antique mall. I want to install them in an uncased opening in my basement separating 2 rooms (interior). The current opening which is drywalled) is 61 1/4 inches. The doors are 29 1/2 inches. the height of opening is 82 inches, i know Ill have to add a 2 x 4 or something to bring the header down a bit.

Questions: Do I use the existing hinges still on the doors?

Do I buy pre-made door casing or make my own and trim it out

Is the opening going to work? or do I have to remove drywall to gain more clearence

If I do use exsisting hinges Do you prop door up align and draw hinges on casing to be chisled or routed?

Thanks



Im a master of none, but a Jack of all

I build furniture, but haven't hung doors from scratch.

Whats the best way to go here?

You did real good finding these great old doors.

A++ advice from posters above.

#'s you advised (dementions) got me thinking..

" i know Ill have to add a 2 x 4 or something to bring the header down a bit. If rough is 82" and if door is 6-8 "80" ..check your floor type and clearance.. 3/4 + 3/4 jamb = 1-1/2" + 1/8" top gap door to jamb + floor needs... get the tape out...

Questions: Do I use the existing hinges still on the doors? they appear to be in great condition ..why not.

Do I buy pre-made door casing or make my own and trim it out ? your a furniture guy..get the tape measure out.. check out the actual depth with mudded corners on your cassed opening.. how straight and clean is it? what size do you need? header width might not be ok for precut jamb set.. 59 " + 1/4 space + 1/8 + 1/8 + 1.5 (rabbited jamb)= 61" precut might be off that..double check

Is the opening going to work? or do I have to remove drywall to gain more clearence.. You may not need to remove drywall..but you might want to.. all depend on the cassed opening corner work of the mudded opening. How will your casing lay on the wall?

If I do use exsisting hinges Do you prop door up align and draw hinges on casing to be chisled or routed? what ever works for you.. trust your tape.. measure twice cut once.

Have fun... what's your plan for the lock set area's?
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:24 PM   #7
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Installing double doors is a challenge ---

Lay a straight edge and level onto the floor in the door opening.shim the straight edge until level.

Draw a line on the shim--measure the shim thickness at the line--Write -ADD ?/? on the jamb side that matches the location of the shim.That leg must be longer by the number from your shim.

---Mike---
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:34 PM   #8
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WOW terrific thoughts. I measured the doors again and they are only 79" tall but 29 1/2 wide each. Must have come out of a leprechaun's house. So Bob! you threw up some interesting thoughts! If I remove drywall + corner bead & mud that could take me back to 62 or 63" opening. I guess I have to go to Lowe's and find out exactly what these dimensions are like you say. And see how flat the casing will lay on the wall never thought of that!. I was going to plug the deadbolt hole by hole sawing a plug from the same thickness and refinish the doors. My wife & daughter told me no! leave the doors just the way they are old & worn. So what I'm going to do is purchase a set of handles that will cover the existing holes ( exterior) and then look for a round plate to cover the dead bolt, beat it up paint it the same color as the handles flat black. I'm looking for an old European Hotel/restaurant/wine cellar look. Please feel free to give any more of your good suggestions on how to do before start this project. Thanks so much!!!!
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:36 PM   #9
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Here is a door I made a while ago. Make the door frame attached by the hinges. Then install the frame plumb,level and square and hang the door.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:52 PM   #10
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My hands are somewhat steady with a router as long as I have had my first cup of coffee. I have to do this right this time! My wife & Daughter in-law Intimidate me, I couldn't bear to have them nag me on crooked hanging doors, they will never let me forget it.

AWSOME! I wish you lived near me my problems would be over! .......I get the point now! at first i was thinking how the heck i was going to stand on my head holding a door and alinging/ marking hinges. This makes it a lot easier. thanks so much for the photos!
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:06 PM   #11
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I agree with Big Bob on all points. I would deff take the mud off the opening. You will trim it later anyway, it will cover that area up.

You build furniture. This is similar. Make the casing yourself. Check the floor level. Make sure you compensate with the casing for any uneveness, and check that the door will open without hitting anything, floor specifically.

Make the casing sides first, attach to doors. Measure out the top, make that, remove sides from doors, and attach top to sides.

Install casing, use shims where the screws will go through them to acheive a straight and level casing. Drive the scres where you will cover it with the doorstop trim later. If you plan to make the doors open In and OUt, then you won't have doorstops, and you can screw it to the studs under the hinges.

Check level and square, hang doors and enjoy.
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:38 PM   #12
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I think thats the way Im going, remove drywall & mud. My builder told me he was making that opening so I could install doors one day when he finished the basement. Thanks so much for the reply. all these suggestions have been great. Yes I can build furniture and Ill just put the tape measure to work, thanks again
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:08 AM   #13
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Show us pics when done. Good luck, I am sure you will be able to handle it.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:11 PM   #14
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It only took me 2 years to do this job, but it is finally done. I ended up making my own casings out of 2x6's and did it just like most of you posted here. I only made a couple mistakes and had to go back & recut top.....when I closed the doors they wouldn't shut one door over hung by 1/4 inch. After recutting they were perfect.....hung nice & straight. I didn't have to remove drywall & corner bead. The hardware was quite expensive because I had to get 10 inch back plates to cover dead bolt hole, But it worked out good. I left the door unfinished (natural weathered) on one side and I painted & antiqued the bedroom side off white. these were exterior used doors so they were thick and heavy.....door knob on the right is the working door and I used dummy handles on the right. Ilove how it all turned out. Thanks so much for all the help here
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:56 AM   #15
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Good job. Looks great.

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