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Old 10-29-2013, 09:28 PM   #1
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Initial Questions on Brick Work


Hello,

I have a window in a wood-framed room with brick veneer on the outside (room is in the half underground part of a split-level). Having re-done the room, I found that the window header was placed at the top of the wall and framed (use that term loosely) down to the window. We have decided to put a taller window in up to the header about 10" higher than original window top. It will be a vinyl replacement window.

I have to raise the lintel up to the bottom of the highest course that covers the header and size/frame the window accordingly. The window is at the back of the house so I'm okay with just cutting the brick but need some advice on how to approach it. Then I would remove mortar to install the new lintel finishing off with mortar, capping, and caulking.

Can anyone provide some advice on the brick work? I've been looking for a resource specificly geared to increasing the height of a window with no luck.

Thanks for any help.
Pete

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Old 10-29-2013, 09:52 PM   #2
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Initial Questions on Brick Work


Anyone else feel a replacement window is the wrong style window for this and likely to leak.

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Old 10-29-2013, 10:04 PM   #3
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Initial Questions on Brick Work


I think it's what is there now....no evidence of leaking seen when the wall was opened.

Inside pics to help: (full view, left side where window meets frame, top of window with insulation in gap between window and header)


Initial Questions on Brick Work-forumrunner_20131029_220309.jpg



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Initial Questions on Brick Work-forumrunner_20131029_220419.jpg

Last edited by pete0403; 10-29-2013 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:46 PM   #4
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Initial Questions on Brick Work


You pretty much have it figured out but I don't think attempting brick work is the best idea as a starter for most folks.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:31 PM   #5
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Okay. I'll get someone experienced with brick work to help me through this one so I can learn. Thanks.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:55 PM   #6
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Initial Questions on Brick Work


I've done hundreds of tooth-ins for window/door replacement in brick and stone veneers in the past. You don't necessarily need to have the lintel fall on a full course, you can have a ripped brick under the lintel and stand cut soldier (vertical) brick on the lintel to get back to coursing above.

The most important element of making this a successful/leak free installation IMO is to ensure you flash the top of the window, as well as the angle iron correctly. A few weeps on the angle iron would be beneficial as well........
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Old 12-08-2013, 01:59 PM   #7
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To update this thread. I got an experienced guy (my dad) to do it for more while I helped/watched. I think I could try something like this myself with guidance next time if it ever came up again.

It worked out that the lintel moved up to a full course of bricks so that made things much easier. He flipped the lintel around so it looks new and toothed in where necessary. It honestly looks now like the brick was original that way.

Thanks feet the advice.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:01 PM   #8
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Glad to hear you got it figured out and done.

Hopefully you fed your Dad for his labors at a minimum.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:57 AM   #9
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Fed and "watered" :-D

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