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Gonna replace a window this weekend . . . .

2K views 6 replies 7 participants last post by  AtlanticWBConst. 
#1 ·
I'm also moving it over about 8 inches to accommodate the new sink location

What materials // tools do I need to bend a flashing for above the window?

This window is on the south side of the house, so getting it sealed properly is gonna be critical, especially being that this is our rainy season. Any other tips will be welcomed. :)
 
#3 ·
joecaption said:
If it's that important to get it closed back up and you have never done this before concider hiring someone that knows how to do it.
Your going to have to remove the siding in that area, open up all the sheetrock, cut out studs and build a whole new header over that window.
Do you have vinyl siding? If so then you should have bought a new constrution window with built in J molding. That way there is no Z moulding needed.
Z moulding can be bought already bent.
To bend your own your would need a brake. There over $1200.00 so I'm guessing you will not go that route.
.

Hmmm...I went to buy a brake but the guy wants $1400. But you said I can get one for $1200. What gives? Should I tell him that's too much?
Maybe I can show him this and tell him he's too high?
What would you do?
 
#2 ·
If it's that important to get it closed back up and you have never done this before concider hiring someone that knows how to do it.
Your going to have to remove the siding in that area, open up all the sheetrock, cut out studs and build a whole new header over that window.
Do you have vinyl siding? If so then you should have bought a new constrution window with built in J molding. That way there is no Z moulding needed.
Z moulding can be bought already bent.
To bend your own your would need a brake. There over $1200.00 so I'm guessing you will not go that route.
 
#5 ·
I read an outstanding article in Fine Homebulding that described how to bend metal flashing without purchasing a break. You can look up the article, it is about 2 years old. The technique essentially consists of using a straight piece of hardwood the required length of the flashing, then gradually bending the metal over the hardwood (which you temporarily fasten in place to a workbench) using a metal bending pliers (I used an electricians diagonal pliers).

This technique worked remarkably well. I made two window caps out of heavy copper sheet (maybe 16 oz?), which is essentially Z flashing, and I bent the flashing for my deck out of aluminum (30 feet long). Plus the copper Z flashing for my French doors (7 feet of flashing). Does it work as well as a professional brake? Of course not. It is a bit slow, you don't get a perfectly crisp angle, and you are limited in terms of the gage of metal you can work with, but it uses readily available tools, and it gets the job done. Personally I like copper as a flashing and cap material, probably last forever, but it is more expensive than aluminum, and it is harder to bend for an equivalent thickness. Plus copper exhibits strain hardening, so you have to get the bends right the first time. But buying a $1200 brake for one window? No way.
 
#6 ·
for a window with a j'd out brick mould you dont really need metal flashing. peel and stick membranes such as blueskin or vycor work perfect as long as its applied under the house wrap

for metal, avoid buying the pre bent metal you should have it custom bent specifically for your window so to get a tight fit and seal. for one peice of metal you definitely wont want to buy a break. and if you have a true lumber yard thats used by pros handy you should be able to just walk in buy the amount of metal you need and bend it up right there at the yard. teh yard i use has a brake directly inside the warehouse where siding, sheet goods, doors and insulation is kept.. big box stores almost never have brakes that your allowed to use unless you rent it
 
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