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miamicuse 04-18-2013 09:58 AM

General window install questions
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I have a couple of general window installation questions. In this case it's for aluminum windows.

I have included a sketch to explain my questions below.

(1) I have seen a bunch of youtube videos and also hired window pros to install windows before. What's confusing me is most of the videos I saw, they do a water proofing all the way around the window opening with felt or plastic or whatever, folding over to the outside surface of the exterior wall. However in South Florida, I have NEVER seen any window guys do any sort of paper waterproofing. Most of the time it's just buttering some caulk and sealant. Why is this? Is it because most homes down here are masonry walls and the stucco layer over the edges effectively waterproofs it?

(2) When installing an aluminum window, install instructions said to apply a bead of silicon all the way around the UNDERSIDE of the flanges (point A in my sketch), and put the window up. That seals it from the inside. After it's all secured and screwed in, then another bead of sealant all the way around between the edge of the flange and concrete on the outside. Sounds good. However, I have seen people down here remove windows on a few projects, and I have never seen any caulk or sealant on the underside of flanges. Usually they cut the outside sealant with a blade, then unscrews the edges, and the window comes right out, never any window got "stubborn" with any sealant on the inside of the flanges. So is that inside flange silicon really necessary?

(3) On a concrete wall, do you set your strips of window buck tight to the window frame by shimming between the buck and the concrete face? Or do you attach the buck to the concrete face, then shim between the window frame and the buck? Which is the right way?

(4) Since there is a "lip" around the window frame on the inside (point B), once I pushed the window in there is still a little bit of space between the window's metal edge and the buck. When I try to screw the window in through point D, the screw will "pull" the edge towards the buck. Is this OK? I was thinking inserting another piece of 1/8" shim under the screw hole but the lip is in the way I can't slide it in there.

Thanks for any advice! :)

bostonwindows30 04-21-2013 06:02 AM

On a concrete house you must caulk the frame all around put buck up first even with the bottom window sill, most likely 3" then put window in tap on all holes and shim..

bostonwindows30 04-21-2013 06:08 AM

I put buck up with a coil nailer first, then put window in and put regular screw in and leveled window once it was leveled I tapcon the sides shimmed the window hammer drilled holes and put tapcons in every hole, then replaced the top screws and hammer drilled the top and put tapcons in florida has very strict inspections and all the holes even top must have tapcons in place there should never be any space between the buck wood and the concrete wall, and you can only have a 1/4" space between windows and buck to shim otherwise it will fail inspection one of the best windows on the market for a reasonable price is a better built window easy to install it has a removable top and bottom sash very nice windows..

bostonwindows30 04-21-2013 06:25 AM

I just put reg screws in the top and level it, shim sides, then replace top screws hammer drill holes and put in tapcons Been doing installs for 20 years in florida, let me know if this helps I can answer any question you have on windows,

bostonwindows30 04-21-2013 06:26 AM

And yes always caulk the flange and also I caulk the buck also very important

miamicuse 04-23-2013 07:53 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by bostonwindows30 (Post 1164036)
I just put reg screws in the top and level it, shim sides, then replace top screws hammer drill holes and put in tapcons Been doing installs for 20 years in florida, let me know if this helps I can answer any question you have on windows,

That's one problem I have is I put in the buck and the window fits in nicely, however on the inside there is still a good 1/4" of space between the edge of the window frame and the buck, like this.

Now if I want to shim the edges, I need to use almost a 1/4" thick shim, but the inside lip is in the way. If I jam it in there the lip would be bent back, like this.

That's why I am thinking I am missing something.

bostonwindows30 04-23-2013 07:58 PM

You need to really clean the block first make it straight, if it is I would caulk the gap,

miamicuse 04-23-2013 08:01 PM

3 Attachment(s)
The block is straight. Actually the buck on all four edges are straight, level and plumb. But there is a gap, if I just caulk in the gap, when I drive the Tapcon through, the driver would pull the aluminum frame to the buck and may distort the frame, right? I think I need something solid behind there.

bostonwindows30 04-23-2013 08:02 PM

Oh I see what your saying, I would shim it as best as you can I have seen this before, and it'd a pain nothing you did just the way it was made, shim it and move sash up and down.

bostonwindows30 04-23-2013 08:05 PM

Put shims vertical should help

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