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-   -   Garage door problem : (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/garage-door-problem-99906/)

Alan 03-28-2011 10:51 PM

Garage door problem :
 
It has an opener (not sure what brand yet) but I don't really think that is the issue, I just want to confirm. The garage door opens fully up to the motor, but then the "hitch" (no idea what it's called) that connects the door to the chain pops free at the motor and the door drops back down. I can re-engage the "hitch" and then the door will fully open to the motor, and drop back down again. Rinse and repeat until you get sick of catching the door so that it doesn't slam.

I'm confused at what is causing it to disengage, but when I looked at the overhead springs (4 of them) one seemed to be a bit looser than the other three. So, is one spring out of adjustment (or broken) causing the door to be too heavy for the "hitch" to stay engaged all the way up?

The first time I used the door it went up and down several times without a problem. :mad:

ThatDaveGuy 03-29-2011 05:38 AM

The springs are there to counterbalance the weight of the door. You should be able to easily open the door fully, or close it all the way, easily and without strain. If that's not the case then you risk frying the opener dragging it up, so that sounds like your first and biggest issue.

Depending on the specific opener type and design, the arm engages the track runner in various ways but it should be firm enough not to slip out. If the opener is deadlifting the whole weight of the door without springs balancing it then it can wear that attachment, so if it comes loose on its own that's a separate concern in itself.

Adjusting a garage door is not that technically difficult but you are dealing with a heavy moving object and strong springs under considerable tension. Your best bet honestly might be to get a door company to check it out rather than try and DIY and get injured or damage something. Check your area, frequently garage door companies will run spring specials to check/service/tuneup a door for minimal cost (until they sell you new parts or accessories of course). $50-$60 is a small price to pay to not hurt yourself, wreck your car or have to buy a new opener.

Just Bill 03-29-2011 06:49 AM

The opener should not pull the latch all the way to the motor housing, there should be a limit switch to stop it.

What he said. Disengage the door from the opener. You should be able to lift to mid travel, release it and it will stay in that postion. If it does not, the springs need to be adjusted or replace. If extension springs(are located next to the top part of the track, they are fairly easy to adjust. If torsion springs(over the top of the door opening on a shaft, these are dangerous to adjust if you are not familiar with them. If the door works as it should, the end (top) limit switch is bad, loose, or misadjusted.

BigD9 03-29-2011 08:24 AM

ThatDaveGuy said it all when he suggested that you get a door company to make the adjustments. A friend of mine who was very handy and owned a small construction/excavating company decided to adjust his garage door. Something happened ( he doesn't remember) and he was hit with the wrench and was knocked off the ladder causing enough broken bones in his arm and hand to require steel pins be placed in his arm and endure a cast covering hand and arm. He was off from work for 3 months! He still has another operation to fix his hand.

But that wasn't the worse part. He was married and she never let him forget what he did.
Be safe.

ThatDaveGuy 03-29-2011 08:59 AM

Often, even if you don't do anything wrong you can get ghanked. A garage door that is out of balance or adjustment can have worn, loose, weakened parts that can break, pop out or come undone if you disturb in just the right way. People tend to be rather blithe when dealing with them but they are the largest moving object around the house (depending on your relatives) and store a deceptively large amount of energy in springs under tension. I've seen residential doors run amok and ruin cars, pierce hoods and doors, break rafters and actually have parts end up outside the garage (via openings you never knew were there before), and overwhelmingly the reason was because a guy said "Oh hell, I know what I'm doing!"

BigD9 03-29-2011 05:17 PM

Quote:

People tend to be rather blithe when dealing with them but they are the largest moving object around the house (depending on your relatives)...
:no::thumbup:


Quote:

I've seen residential doors run amok and ruin cars, pierce hoods and doors...
You should see what happens when a tractor with a roll bar that is 3 inches taller than the 16 foot wide door, attempts to back out of the garage. Not a pretty site. Please don't ask how I know.:eek:

DangerMouse 03-29-2011 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigD9 (Post 619478)
:no::thumbup:



You should see what happens when a tractor with a roll bar that is 3 inches taller than the 16 foot wide door, attempts to back out of the garage. Not a pretty site. Please don't ask how I know.:eek:

ummmm.... how did the tractor get IN the garage????

DM

BigD9 03-29-2011 06:59 PM

Well I'm told the fool lowered the ROPS (roll over protection system) bar and drove it inside to work on the tractor where it was nice and warm. The ROPS had to be raised back up to work on the 3 PT hitch area of the tractor and the fool forgot to lower the ROPS before backing out of the garage. Add insult to injury, the house and garage were only 3 months old at the time.

The fool told me when the ROPS impacted the raised garage door, the first thing he noticed were these rollers bouncing all over the place like hail, then almost immediately a loud sound and the door fell on top of the ROPS as well as the fools wife's minivan parked inside the garage. Thanks goodness I had.....I mean the fool had the ROPS raised or his head would really be smarting from that door impacting his noggin.

Now 3 years after that event, the fools wife still says "is the ROPS bar lowered?" every time I back the van out of the garage.:bangin: Oh well, at my age I'll only have to listen to that for maybe 30 more years!

DangerMouse 03-29-2011 07:02 PM

I pity da fool.... :laughing:

DM

BigD9 03-29-2011 07:09 PM

Elevation 3,896 at the Battle Creek Airport? You in a Hot Air Balloon? Or was the "-" a mistake and you are in China?

DangerMouse 03-29-2011 07:15 PM

that would be close.... 3,000 ft. above the airport... circling for the last 4 years..... they won't land and let me off the plane.
They said they'd be happy to open the door and let me out, but they're fresh out of parachutes.....

DM

Alan 03-30-2011 08:58 AM

I CAN lift it, the first few feet are easy, then it gets difficult. Once half the door gets past the curve of the track it is very easy to hold there. I'm betting on a spring too, just wanted to confirm before I use my only quarter to call someone who gives a hoot.

Thanks all.

BigD9 03-30-2011 09:57 AM

Quote:

I CAN lift it, the first few feet are easy, then it gets difficult. Once half the door gets past the curve of the track it is very easy to hold there.
It of course could be the springs, and probably is. But look at other areas too. Look at things like the tracts on each side of the door to see if they are parallel to each other - the same distance apart from each other. Could be one of the tracts is out of adjustment and the door is binding. Also look at the rollers and the shaft to see if they are lubricated. Are the rollers binding in one of the tracts? On mine, right where the vertical tract joins the curved tract there was a bent lip on the curved section. When the roller passed that bent place it would stick a bit and cause the door to shift and shutter. Do the rollers turn as the door is going up? Maybe one of the tracts is squeezed together binding one of the rollers. Make sure the hinges on each door section are in good shape and lubricated. Sounds like when the door is hinging going around the curve is when you are having your problems. Maybe one of the hinges is bent? Sticking? Loose?

You also mentioned that the "hitch" was popping open when the door arrived at its full open position. Un-hitch the door and open it. Does the door stop at a point before the door opener normally opens the to? Maybe the door is hitting a stop, but the opener is trying to pull the door past that stop. There is an adjustment for that.

Alan 03-31-2011 09:18 AM

Got a pro out there yesterday. He said the last installer (from out of town, they left their sticker by the button) did not use the proper springs, the cables are cutting into the rails which I did not notice when I first looked at it, and the door (wooden) is not in the greatest shape, although I think it would last a couple more years . . . .

He reccomended just replacing the door since everything else needs to be worked over, and I agree. Why fix all that other stuff and put a piece o' crap door back on it?

$2300 for 20' door, springs, and new rails. Opener is another 400 on top of this if needed.

Going to get some other quotes. :thumbup:

ThatDaveGuy 03-31-2011 08:15 PM

Well, you had a 20' wooden door w/ extension springs? Be very glad you didn't tinker with it, that monster coulda eaten you.

Just out of curiosity, what brand of door is he trying to sell you for that $2300?


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