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-   -   Garage door opener install, 9ft walls 7ft door (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/garage-door-opener-install-9ft-walls-7ft-door-186891/)

n0c7 09-12-2013 10:00 AM

Garage door opener install, 9ft walls 7ft door
 
Just about to mount my new Chamberlain belt driven opener in my garage. The walls are 9 1/2 feet tall, but the garage door is 7ft. I want to minimize headroom loss so I want to mount this as close to the ceiling as possible.

I assume I'll need to extend the straight arm bracket to make this work. If so, any suggestions for materials that work well? Simple predrilled iron brackets? I don't believe Chamberlain carries extension straight arms.

firehawkmph 09-12-2013 11:51 AM

No,
mount the opener the way they are designed to mount. Don't extend the arm. The area above the door is normally dead space. Do yourself a favor and get the hole punched angle iron used to mount the garage door tracks to mount your opener head. Don't use the thin spaghetti strap junk they package with the openers.
Mike Hawkins:)

Msradell 09-12-2013 02:08 PM

I believe my answer is the same as firehawk's but if you can provide a picture of what you are talking about it would certainly be helpful.

Shaynecalkins 09-28-2013 04:24 PM

mounting the opener to high will cause fatigue in a metal garage door. i have seen wood doors done this way that lasted years but it is not recommended. use the space above the opener for storage instead. i have seen shelf systems designed using the opener rail as support before they started making the carriage wrap all the way around the rail. The opener need to be as low as possible at the back and level with the highest point in the door travel at the front. lift the door about 18 inches off the floor and take a level and set it on top of the door angling the level toward the wall. make a mark on the wall and that is your highest point. then close the door and run the level verticle from the center of the door and where it intersects with the previous line thats your bullseye. make a line and mount your header bracket just above that line and centered.at the back hang,where the motor head mounts, i open the door and put a 2x4 across the top section as support and set the opener rail on that. mount your ANGLE iron and remove the 2x4. perfect install. yes i know the rail is not level. it works far more effectively that way. the direction of force is optimized.

n0c7 09-28-2013 04:27 PM

I ended up doing exactly what you said and its working great :)

Dinggus 10-06-2013 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaynecalkins (Post 1247398)
mounting the opener to high will cause fatigue in a metal garage door. i have seen wood doors done this way that lasted years but it is not recommended. use the space above the opener for storage instead.

Can you show me a photo of what you're talking about with using the dead space as storage?

Quote:

Originally Posted by n0c7 (Post 1247400)
I ended up doing exactly what you said and its working great :)

Mind sharing a photo?

Shaynecalkins 10-09-2013 02:22 PM

i will try. I am a service tech and i see them in the field. We should almost start a new thread and i will post every idea i find(some people dont want their personal items photographed) but i will try. I have seen some very inventive solutions. The one piece of advice i can offer is
Where the torsion springs mount above the door, the service man needs 2 or three inches above the springs to service them. two feet back from the door you may drop the headroom down to the opener rail. or if a channel is built around the rail you can drop it til it touches the open door. The door fully open is the highest point at the back. The door 18 inches off the floor is the highest point at the front. I will have to show pictures of decks that were almost too low. 90 % of those did not give me room to change the spring. creativity goes a long ways though and we finish the job despite the low headroom.

Dinggus 10-09-2013 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaynecalkins (Post 1251500)
i will try. I am a service tech and i see them in the field. We should almost start a new thread and i will post every idea i find(some people dont want their personal items photographed) but i will try. I have seen some very inventive solutions. The one piece of advice i can offer is
Where the torsion springs mount above the door, the service man needs 2 or three inches above the springs to service them. two feet back from the door you may drop the headroom down to the opener rail. or if a channel is built around the rail you can drop it til it touches the open door. The door fully open is the highest point at the back. The door 18 inches off the floor is the highest point at the front. I will have to show pictures of decks that were almost too low. 90 % of those did not give me room to change the spring. creativity goes a long ways though and we finish the job despite the low headroom.

Well my roommate said his dad put 2x4's across the beams on their garage and use it, but it looks like when I open my garage, the door goes above the railing a little.

I'm on my way to go pick up a garage door opener, and I have no clue how to mount it due to my house having metal beams instead of wood.

Shaynecalkins 10-11-2013 03:22 AM

the door goes about 3 inches above the tracks at the front and 2 inches at the back. so the whole deck needs to be at least level with the opener rail. above it would be better, i have seen a channel built around the rail so the deck could be dropped a couple inches but it looked like a lot of work.
when it comes to attaching to a metal framing i do it two ways. Either drill to attach two verticals or attach wood to the metal.
horizontal wood drilled straight up works good. or prepunched angle run horizontal. whats tough is if the metal is not directly above the mounting spot. hopefully theres an electric box close to the motor head. if the metal frame work is not above the motor head you must run two horizontals between the trusses. some of our trusses are 4 feet apart.
for the decking above the door, if you open the door all the way, measure from the top of the door to the ceiling, the is the lowest point the bottom of your deck can be. It is a little higher at the front because as the door comes off the floor the top section swings pretty high above the tracks. If you lift it about 18 inches off the floor you will see what i mean. as the top section swings over the tracks you can measure the distance to the ceiling and that is the lowest it can be at the front. i sometimes vise grip it so i can get my measurement. i have seen the door touch their deck on many jobs.
i dont know how they got it that close. trial and error? it works ok but its not recommended. the doors change shape with the weather and moving the deck is out of the question.


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