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Old 09-29-2013, 10:55 AM   #1
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Framing new basement window


I am installing a bigger basement window, cutting a larger opening in my basement foundation.

I am putting in jackstuds (2X10s) and a steel header.

My question: Do I need a separate frame on the sides, or can I get away with attaching the new window to the jackstuds? I can use separate wood at the top and bottom without an issue.

I ask because I am trying to limit the width of the window opening, so even saving an inch would be helpful.

Thanks in advance!

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Old 09-29-2013, 07:20 PM   #2
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Framing new basement window


I'm unsure of what you are doing---are you installing this into a concrete or block wall?

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Old 09-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #3
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Framing new basement window


It is going into a concrete basement wall - not a block wall -- the house is 45 yrs old. I am cutting a hole about 43 inches wide by about 30 inches deep, and removing a smaller window. I will use bolts to attach to the 2X10 jack studs to the concrete edges, and then just screw the window to the jack studs.

I cant imagine a need for a separate frame inside the jack studs ... just wanted to make sure I was not missing something.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:00 AM   #4
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Framing new basement window


You may not really need bolts - you might be able to use "Tapcons".

If you're using a steel header (if it's installed correctly) all you need
is something to fasten the window to -
pressure-treated lumber?

Vinyl window?

Is this an escape/egress window?
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:05 AM   #5
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Framing new basement window


Yes - I have a Remington nail gun. I may just nail it. The engineer report calls for bolts stuck into the cement several inches. Some guys here use Sikaflex 1A and nothing else to fasten it to the concrete

Yes, it is an egress window. Yes, it is vinyl and yes, I will use pressure treated 2X10s.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:08 AM   #6
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Framing new basement window


If it's an escape/egress window -
better check for what your local code is for size and hieghth from the
floor is.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:10 AM   #7
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Framing new basement window


Yes - the size and window placement surpasses city requirements.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:18 AM   #8
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Framing new basement window


That's good!
However, remember - depending on the exact type of window -
single-hung, double-hung, slider etc...
The "actual" size of the escape/egress OPENING should be taken into
consideration!
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:00 PM   #9
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Framing new basement window


IMO, use pt wood with Grace Vycor between the concrete/wood to stop capillary action. Add two beads of sealant (or sill sealer poly material) at that joint for air blockage. Tapcons or lag bolts as directed, don't cheap-out with nails only. Add caulking/sealant in the tapcon holes before install.

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Old 09-30-2013, 02:58 PM   #10
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Framing new basement window


Are you putting this in the middle of the wall or something? ... Just asking because most basement windows start at the top of the foundation, so no steel header/jack studs would be necessary. If you had an engineer make the recommendations I'm sure that you are on the right track, just wondering.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:45 PM   #11
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Framing new basement window


Sorry for the delay in my response.

There is about 12 inches of foundation above the window - there are three joists that rest on top of the foundation where the window is.

Now I am trying to find instructions on how to install a steel header - I suppose I just get it to fit nice and snug, and let it rest on the jack studs and give it a good coating of caulk.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:50 PM   #12
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Framing new basement window


Typically, a steel header (called a lintel) is supported by the surrounding structure. In your case, a notch would be made on either side of your cut opening for the beam to sit on. Minimum 6" of bearing, typically 8" each end. Keep in mind this is now it is done in commercial construction, I am not privy as to how it differs in residential.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:07 PM   #13
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Framing new basement window


I chatted with the engineer and received more clear instruction -- the steel header needs to sit on the two jack studs, which need to be 2X10s pressure-treated fir.

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