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-   -   Drip cap placement with T1-11 siding? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/drip-cap-placement-t1-11-siding-182839/)

SMRcalidiv 07-01-2013 10:24 AM

Drip cap placement with T1-11 siding?
 
To make a long story short, I am putting in new construction windows in my home which has T1-11 siding. There is no sheathing as has been discussed many times on this forum before. I had another thread going and I felt like I was ready to go as far as flashing goes, but now I seem to find conflicting info about the placement of the drip cap everywhere I look. Here is where I am stuck:

1. Cut back the siding so that I can run the drip cap over the top of the head trim. Then I am left with a void as the trim nails to the siding. I guess I can replace the cut piece of siding underneath of the trim to space it back out???

2. Run the drip cap over the window head directly, and behind the siding, letting it extend outward between the head trim and the window.

3. Run a Z channel behind the siding at the window head and then cover it with the head trim. allowing the end of the "z" to cover the nail fin which would be flashed already with flexible flashing.

Windows on Wash 07-01-2013 05:49 PM

Are you siding over the T1-11 when you are done?

SMRcalidiv 07-01-2013 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1210103)
Are you siding over the T1-11 when you are done?

No, it will just be the siding and then trim...with no sheathing underneath. I will have to cut the siding back a couple of inches to get the old window out, and then put the new window in.

SMRcalidiv 07-03-2013 06:08 PM

Anyone? I am assuming the main concern will be getting the metal behind the existing siding and out to daylight. I would prefer to not have the cap above the trim but I want to do this correctly.

hand drive 07-04-2013 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMRcalidiv (Post 1211185)
Anyone? I am assuming the main concern will be getting the metal behind the existing siding and out to daylight. I would prefer to not have the cap above the trim but I want to do this correctly.


you will have to get the drip cap in place before the trim goes on. this allows you access up behind the siding from below- just cut the drip to size and slide it up from below(make sure all nails are clear to allow the drip to slide up till it sits against underside of cut siding and use a quality caulk between underside of siding and top of drip to squish it in). the drip at this stage just hangs in place mooshed into your caulk until you get the window trimmed out butting the trim up to the underside of the drip pressing it in place and not allowing any further movement.

SMRcalidiv 07-04-2013 10:54 AM

Ok, so you would recommend the drip cap over the head trim.

I may be confused here, but if I caulk the bottom of the siding to the drip cap wouldn't effectively be trapping the water and rendering the drip cap useless?

SMRcalidiv 07-08-2013 10:30 AM

bump for more responses

SMRcalidiv 07-12-2013 11:32 AM

bump...after looking around my neighborhood I cannot see a single home with drip caps on their windows. Not saying it's right, but it makes me question their necessity.

hand drive 07-12-2013 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMRcalidiv (Post 1214956)
bump...after looking around my neighborhood I cannot see a single home with drip caps on their windows. Not saying it's right, but it makes me question their necessity.


if you were to pull the trim off of the top of those windows the T 1-11 behind the trim would be water softened most likely. caulking is the drip cap in that scenario and caulking fails/cracks depending on conditions.

SMRcalidiv 07-13-2013 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 1214961)
if you were to pull the trim off of the top of those windows the T 1-11 behind the trim would be water softened most likely. caulking is the drip cap in that scenario and caulking fails/cracks depending on conditions.

Makes sense, it's just hard to believe how prevalent the lack of a drip cap is around here. Is it not code, or is it a "new" code?

hand drive 07-13-2013 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMRcalidiv (Post 1215343)
Makes sense, it's just hard to believe how prevalent the lack of a drip cap is around here. Is it not code, or is it a "new" code?


it is more common sense but that is a hard detail to work out correctly on T 1-11 siding so most siding guys go with a caulk and forget it attitude. I tell homeowners to watch those spots on their houses and if the caulk starts to crack to dig out the loose caulk and add new caulking.
the tudor style houses with the horizontal batten boards outside of the siding panels is a perfect example of that type of construction. look on top of many of those 1x4's going horizontally and you will see water access behind the 1x4. once the water goes behind there it stays trapped and absorbs into whatever it can leading to rot. T1-11 is actually worse because of the grooves in the panels and caulk shrinks. use a quality caulk and you should be good to go.

SMRcalidiv 07-13-2013 01:36 PM

Thanks for the insight. I want to use a drip cap so I am going to try to carefully cut the siding without disturbing the felt paper behind it, then try to attach the drip cap to the studs and lay the felt over it. The problem I am having is finding a drip cap at a local store that has the correct dimensions for what I need.

Gary in WA 07-28-2013 04:42 PM

Did you find any flashing? I have used roof-to-wall flashing before when in a pinch. Use a 2x for straight, clean bends (cut to width before bending). Don't forget the end dams, page 8. And 2 pieces of flash, one over trim, one under trim- over window frame, pp. 10; http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

Gary

SMRcalidiv 07-29-2013 12:36 PM

I did not find any flashing yet, but I think I will have to get creative as you mentioned. Thanks for that info, it's helpful.

ovahimba 08-04-2013 11:39 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Here are some photos of what I did over a door. The L flash angled down over the top trim keeps everything dry, no caulk needed. I put spacers under the top trim to nail it in place. The downward pressure from the flash will hold the top piece in place even without fasteners.

The downside is its a lot more work and you need a track saw to cut the downward angles in the siding. Inserting L flash under t-11 is a pain if its already nailed tight in the work area.

With a nail fin on the top edge of a window frame, I have never seen the need for an upper drip cap, at least for T-11 siding.


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