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-   -   Door Install Help (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/door-install-help-168142/)

benleef 01-03-2013 01:40 PM

Door Install Help
 
1 Attachment(s)
I purchased an Anderson 400 series Single Panel in-swing door on craigslist. From what I gather, it was re-framed after some damage was done to the jambs from a break in attempt. Otherwise the Door looks like-new. I will be removing a window and installing this door in its place--they are basically the same width, and the top of the door will be lower than the existing window's top.

I've been doing some research to learn how to do this, but still have many questions.

I will remove the existing window, and then make sure the sill is level, I will frame down from the existing header for my rough opening.

after that:

1) Is it easiest to just remove the siding that is nearby? The door does not come with any brick molding or anything, and I was just going to buy some flat Plastic molding for the outside. I was thinking I could install the door, add the molding, then add the j channel and cut the removed siding to fit.

2) How to I add house wrap? Do I just staple it under the existing siding and wrap it around to the inside of the rough opening and staple again on the inside?

3) After the house wrap, what is the proper way to flash the rough opening? I do not have a break to bend metal flashing. I've watched a couple of videos where they use the self adhesive flashing, working from the bottom sill, up the sides, and then the top. Will this work OK?

4) After installing the door (there is no nailing flange, but there are specific places to screw through the frame). Do I use the same flashing material to go from the outside door jamb covering the gap, and then cover with trim and caulk?

I know this is a lot and I apologize, I have a general idea of how to do it, but the exact methods i'm not comfortable on yet. Any help with any of my questions will help. Here is a picture of the outside area where the window currently waits to be removed.

joecaption 01-03-2013 02:00 PM

Yes all the siding needs to come off.
Yes the house wrap gets cut and folded over into the RO. Just make an X.
If I was doing it I would use vinyl J moulding not just flat stock, reason being is unless you used at least 5/4 material it's not going to stick out far enough from the wall.
Flashing is then added to the threshold that goes up the sides of the jambs and is folded down to protect the outside wall.
I would install the brick moulding to the door jams first then install the door using 3" long galvinized finish nails. This way you know it's flush to the wall. I add a layer of caulking behind the brick molding. Once the doors squared up and plumb and nailed in place add Z moulding over the top of the door so no water can get in behind the trim.
There needs to be a strip of 1 X vinyl installed tight under the threshold to fully support it.
Now you can install the J molding.
Since there's no nailing fin there no need for window tape on the sides.
Now install the siding. Make sure to leave room for expantion and do not nail it tight to the wall, as cold as it is the vinyl is contracted.
http://www.weatheroutflashing.com/

Any stoop or steps need to be at least 4" below the doors threshold.
Looks like your going to have to relocate that condinsate drain.

benleef 01-03-2013 02:19 PM

Thanks for your help. I have some follow-up questions if you don't mind.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1085432)
Yes all the siding needs to come off.
Yes the house wrap gets cut and folded over into the RO. Just make an X.

How do I add the house wrap? Do I just nail it somewhere that overlaps the existing house wrap?

Quote:

If I was doing it I would use vinyl J moulding not just flat stock, reason being is unless you used at least 5/4 material it's not going to stick out far enough from the wall.
I'm not sure what J molding is.

Quote:

Flashing is then added to the threshold that goes up the sides of the jambs and is folded down to protect the outside wall.
Quote:

I would install the brick moulding to the door jams first then install the door using 3" long galvinized finish nails. This way you know it's flush to the wall. I add a layer of caulking behind the brick molding.
Can you please elaborate. The door did not come with brick molding. The outside door jams are a vinyl material and are square with the indoor door jambs.

Quote:

Once the doors squared up and plumb and nailed in place add Z moulding over the top of the door so no water can get in behind the trim.
There needs to be a strip of 1 X vinyl installed tight under the threshold to fully support it.
Do I attach the strip of 1X vinyl right to the siding under the door (if there is any) How do I attach the vinyl without causing water problems?

Quote:

Now you can install the J molding.
Since there's no nailing fin there no need for window tape on the sides.
Now install the siding. Make sure to leave room for expantion and do not nail it tight to the wall, as cold as it is the vinyl is contracted.
http://www.weatheroutflashing.com/

Any stoop or steps need to be at least 4" below the doors threshold.
Looks like your going to have to relocate that condinsate drain.
Why so far below the threshold? As you can see there is a window below, so I don't want to have to go too far down and cover the window. That "condinsate drain" I believe is actually a poorly done plumbing vent for basement bathroom. I'll have to take the paneling off in the bathroom and investigate---probably lead to me installing a AAV in the wall or something for now.

joecaption 01-03-2013 02:31 PM

No offence but if your that unsure about all these basic things you may be better off hiring this one out.

The new house wrap gets tucked in under the old so water would run over it not under it.
Any time any solid surface is to close to a doors threshold water will find it's way under it. Look around at some of the other newer post on this site there's one right now where the guys dealing with a rotted out subflooring, sheetrock, bottom plates.

J moulding is just that, look around the window or door you have now.
It should have J moulding to cover up the ends of the siding.

benleef 01-03-2013 02:41 PM

no offense taken. I have a general idea, and I've done some research I've just never had the hands on experience. I thought about hiring it out, but a) I'd like to save the money and b) I'd like to learn how to do it. This is a DIY chatroom, where people come to get advice and learn how to do things.

So J-molding is a J-channel for siding then? I know what that is, just never heard it referred to as J-molding that is all. This would get installed on top of the outside jamb and caulked? So I would essentially have no molding around the door? Makes sense.

Do I just chalk the holes and screw the 1X under the threshold? then install the siding around it?

Thanks!

joecaption 01-03-2013 02:47 PM

I have to go to the store be right back.

benleef 01-03-2013 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1085472)
I have to go to the store be right back.

I do appreciate your help!

I think I get what you were saying about installing the brick molding first--I'm just not sure how I attach it to the door. Then I would install the j molding up against that and affix the siding.

Thanks again.

benleef 01-03-2013 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1085472)
I have to go to the store be right back.

would something like vinyl lineals work?


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