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-   -   Does closet trim fit here? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/does-closet-trim-fit-here-179945/)

Dorado 05-19-2013 10:44 AM

Does closet trim fit here?
 
1 Attachment(s)
The original trim for my bifold doors was very plain and attached in a weird place. I haven't seen much trim inset like that and I'm afraid it might not look good these days, but do I have room for the more common style? The trim has to hang 1" past the wall and there's only about 1-1/2" of wall that it could be glued to because of the wall plate. It's a steel stud wall and the only nail block is for the baseboard.

Also, if there's any such thing as a timeless style of trim, what is is? I foresee bad things happening when the next guy tries replacing it (studs bending, drywall tearing, etc.). This is for the smaller of two bedrooms in an apartment.

framer52 05-19-2013 12:16 PM

I would glue the trim on and let the next person worry about the resultant mess that could be made.

As far as the right trim, buy what you want to look good in your eye and stop again worrying about the next owner.

hope this helps:thumbsup:

Dorado 05-19-2013 03:30 PM

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OK, I think I'll glue two flat pieces of molding together and make a wider version of the molding that's around the door to the room, which is steel embedded in the plaster and unlikely to be replaced. I don't know why they made the closet molding different when they built the building, but it will match now.

Unless someone thinks it's too ugly.

Dorado 05-19-2013 09:38 PM

Hey, I don't need corner bead for my closet extension if I'm using regular trim! I almost put it on. Good thing I need a 7th coat of joint compound. Actually I lost track after 4 or 5.

hand drive 05-21-2013 09:24 AM

use trim screws to attach the trim to the metal studs. they use a #1 Phillips bit.

Dorado 05-21-2013 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 1183975)
use trim screws to attach the trim to the metal studs. they use a #1 Phillips bit.

I was afraid that the next guy to change the trim would try prying it off and the trim screws wouldn't let go and the studs would bend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by framer52 (Post 1182459)
stop again worrying about the next owner.

I can't help it. If the original architect in the 1960s cared about future occupants then the super wouldn't have to cut rebar to fix a leak, I wouldn't have to install coax jacks in the bedrooms, and the closet doors wouldn't close on the sleeves of my clothes. I want to be better than that.

hand drive 05-21-2013 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorado (Post 1184007)
I was afraid that the next guy to change the trim would try prying it off and the trim screws wouldn't let go and the studs would bend.



I can't help it. If the original architect in the 1960s cared about future occupants then the super wouldn't have to cut rebar to fix a leak, I wouldn't have to install coax jacks in the bedrooms, and the closet doors wouldn't close on the sleeves of my clothes. I want to be better than that.


On my jobs I always write peaceful sayings on the walls or put keep sake objects behind cabinets and other hidden places to be resurrected later at the next remodel.

as far as being concerned about someone who comes along behind you, you can only go so far with that- you have to build it strong with screws and glue if needed so that it stays on the wall and does not move around etc... having to go back and fix some of my own stuff after having built it has caused me to cuss at how well I built it up front but it is the way it is and you have to build it like it is going to be there for 100 years.

Dorado 05-21-2013 02:46 PM

I know...since the trim will be made of two flat sections, I can make it out of strips of drywall and corner bead. I'll screw it in and when someone pries them off they'll crack and come off easily and the screws will be visible so they'll know to unscrew them. I'll make sure the screws don't go through the corner bead.

Or I'll use wood trim with holes drilled for balsa wood inserts where the screws will go.


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