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Old 11-15-2013, 08:35 PM   #16
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Difficulty of replacing slider? Quality of these models?


Few months later, I'm at the point where I have to get this done. I have a renter lined up for this house, looks to be a long-term renter based off what I can tell. I told him the plans to replace the old worn out back slider as part of the things that I would have done. He asked about the possibility of doing a french door instead of a slider. I looked up the cost and I can do a french door within the ~$700 I have allotted for this door replacement.

I measured my rough opening tonight and found it to be 71-1/4" wide x 80" high. Crap. Started looking at all the doors and they require a ~72" rough opening. I thought "Damn, I'm going to have to do another slider, or have to order a custom french door. I started looking closer at my framing, and at pictures of the opened up wall from my kitchen remodel. Looked closer at the wood in the rough opening. Something didn't look right. Peeled back the corner bead. Sure enough, the two sides of my opening are furred out (that the right word?) 5/8" with plywood. Removing these will give me another 1-1/4" for a total of 72-1/2". Outstanding.



Here's what I have on the left side; I would "assume" it's the same on the right side.




I saw the grain and said "That doesn't look right". Peeled the corner bead back...awesome. It's 5/8" plywood.




Looked closer at the left side, same thing.




Here is the outside of my house. Anything weird? (Please forgive the tornado inside -- packing!)










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Old 11-15-2013, 08:58 PM   #17
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Difficulty of replacing slider? Quality of these models?


Like I said, changing my direction from slider to french.

Looking at this one so far.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_290271-44176...0glass|Left|In

I didn't see any thing at Home Depot that interested me. I'm not looking to get fancy or blow a bunch of money. Remember. Rental house. Nothing extravagant and fancy. One could argue that the blinds are a waste and prone to failure. Possibly. The good thing on these windows is that they are an insert so IF they get screwed up, they can be repaired/replaced without breaking the glass seal.

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Old 11-19-2013, 01:16 PM   #18
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Difficulty of replacing slider? Quality of these models?


OK today is the day!


Before I started yanking stuff out.




We have a hole. I didn't realize the old slider was going to be a PITA to remove. I had to bend the frame to get it out. Unless I missed a step somewhere?




Please let me know if anything looks weird, strange, or problematic.



I will be removing the drywall cornerbead, as well as that ply wood.




I don't like the condition of that narrow piece of plywood. That will be replaced/shimmed etc. Any further guidance please advise.




This plywood will also be removed.




This plywood will also be removed.




View straight up.




View straight in at floor level.








I believe this french door will be a little wider than my previous slider. Will I be removing this trim (what is the proper name for it?) If I have to cut my siding back a little, what is the best way to do this?
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:08 PM   #19
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Well, I've got to fix the threshold/sill area before I can go any further. I don't think that wedging in a little 2-1/2" sliver in there is the best option. I think that the best option would be to pull up this last row of flooring (which I planned to anyways, it's just temporary), and cut a new piece of subfloor roughly 6" wide (whatever the measurement comes out to). I could sister the floor joists at the ends to build them out enough to let the new piece of subfloor rest on. I have limited access from below because it's in the "overhang" part of the house. The rim joist is a bit lower than the joists in some parts as you can see in the picture. I don't know if this should be handled by building up the low areas with non-deteriorating shims or what. I also don't know why the hell they used the tiny 2" sliver of subfloor under the bottom plate. Maybe that's correct, but seems stupid to me.






Look at that fall-off, I don't know how to address this. It seems like that near joist is a bit higher than the rest, causing the issue. The last one looks close to in line with the top of the rim joist. Perhaps if I replace a 6" wide piece of subfloor, I can shave a bit off the top of that joist (it's not structural since it's not even attached to the rim joist.











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Old 11-19-2013, 03:27 PM   #20
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Difficulty of replacing slider? Quality of these models?


Its called j channel. You cut vinyl with some straight pattern snips.(I think this is the technical name for them)
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:30 PM   #21
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I also learned I don't have any house wrap that I have to worry about. At least on this side of the house.
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:11 PM   #22
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Well, I went with option B.






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Old 11-19-2013, 11:53 PM   #23
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................aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand..............:la ughing:
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:01 AM   #24
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What the hell did I get myself into.

I have 3/4" hardwood installed. I planned on finishing the last row once I got the door installed. If the door is installed on subfloor, do they allow enough clearance to swing over hardwood? I don't know what the planned installed floor height is on these. I can't find it anywhere.

I'm reading one hundred different ways to deal with the sill area. I don't know if I can buy anything locally. Suresill or Jamsill I need to order it appears.

I found this diagram but I don't see me getting flashing under my decking material.



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Old 11-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #25
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I take it you don't have the door? It should have an adjustable height threshold and the door should most definitely have enough clearance for 3/4 hardwood. My Jeldwen had a 1 1/8 roughly minimum height threshold. That doesn't include the weatherstripping under the door.
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:22 PM   #26
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I don't have the door yet but I have it picked out. My buddy was going to help me go pick it up and put it in, but I told him don't bother yet until I get the opening ready.

Thanks for the info! I went and took a closer look at the door today and there will be plenty of clearance.

My wife is not amused.
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Old 11-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #27
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There is no feasible way to properly do this without taking my god damn deck and siding off. "Good enough" is going to have to work.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:46 PM   #28
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I'm not there but I see no reason in the pics why your deck needs to come off. You have good clearance, you just need some flashing around the skirt board. As for your uneven joists, make your gap in the finished flooring, sister some 2x4 or 2x6's to your existing joists at even level heights, and secure some new ply over top. The sisters aren't structural, they are just fixing your uneven joists. Put either a pan in the opening for the door to sit on or wrap the whole thing in strips of ice and water shield. Grace has their VYCOR wrap and Protecto Wrap has their own strips as well.

Keep in mind, your siding needed to be changed around the opening anyway, since your top J channel wouldn't be sized for the new width. Also, the heights may also be different and the width too depending on if your door has a nailing flange or brick mold.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:21 PM   #29
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Walking Dead fans?

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Old 11-20-2013, 11:46 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminaquagmire View Post
I'm not there but I see no reason in the pics why your deck needs to come off. You have good clearance, you just need some flashing around the skirt board. As for your uneven joists, make your gap in the finished flooring, sister some 2x4 or 2x6's to your existing joists at even level heights, and secure some new ply over top. The sisters aren't structural, they are just fixing your uneven joists. Put either a pan in the opening for the door to sit on or wrap the whole thing in strips of ice and water shield. Grace has their VYCOR wrap and Protecto Wrap has their own strips as well.

Keep in mind, your siding needed to be changed around the opening anyway, since your top J channel wouldn't be sized for the new width. Also, the heights may also be different and the width too depending on if your door has a nailing flange or brick mold.
I After I got a hammer and pry bar out, I think it's doable. Ugly, but doable. I need to put some sort of new lip over the existing lip. I also need some of them fancy corner sills.

If you see in the other post, I did just that and built up with 2x4s. Some of the deck boards were jammed up against the house, I used my multi-tool to cut them back a little bit.

There is no way the hardwood is going to be able to sit correctly on this new subfloor the way it is, but, I can plane or sand down the backside of the hardwood to bring it down to the correct height to match. (Unless there is a better way).

I'm a little nervous about getting the siding redone, I've never messed with it before. I'll have to do some searching around about that.

The door I am getting has a brick mold, no nailing flange. Should I run the adhesive rubber based backing down the sides of the opening before the door goes up too? Or just do it after the door is attached. I haven't seen any brick mold install info yet.

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