I want to replace the andersen windows in my home. they have been in 30 years. they are andersen narrowline double hung windows. I have steel siding that butts up to the outside of the windows. underneath the siding is fiber board. I want to cut a 2 inch channel around the windows without removing the siding to remove the storm flaps from the old windows and renail the new ones. my question is how to cut the 2 inch channel in the steel siding? what is the best tool? will the heat from the abrasive or saw blade cause enough heat to cause a problem with fire? I have had people suggest an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade. any ideas will be helpful thanks.
Not a great plan. Anyway to just go with a replacement window so you do not have to mess with the siding?
There's just no great way to install the window and get it air and water tight by doing it the way your suggesting without removing the siding.
Actually cutting back siding to install a new, flanged window is very common and is a very good way to do it, provided that you flash it correctly. The only thing I'll say, is that you may need to cut it back just a little bit more than that to do so... It is basically the same thing as installing a flanged window in brick, but just removing and reinstalling the brickmold... You wouldn't tell someone that they need to remove all of the brick surrounding the window, right?
I want to replace the whole window, because some of the bottom sills on the outside are getting soft from weather exposure, even though they are wrapped in plastic. if 2 inches is not wide enough, then how wide does it need to be? also what would you use to cut the siding? I am not a contractor, but I do a lot of my own work.
Did a whole houseful of these last year. I cut around the window
with a dual saw far enough out that the nailing flange on the new window
would fit. Installed the window, flashed properly and covered the nail flange with PVC brick-mold. Then caulk where the brick-mold meets window and siding meets brick- mold.
Ya..it's a pretty cool tool. Bought it specifically
for that job. Safety glasses and ear plugs
are a must...throws stuff everywhere and makes
a hellashist racket.
I'm gonna put a steel standing seam roof on my
2 outbuildings this spring. Probably use for that
as well. Supposed to be to cut just about anything.
Good ideas -
A "nibbler" distorts the siding too much -
If you can't afford a "dual-saw" -
try a "multi-tool" -
Whatever you use -
Prime the cut edges, of the siding with some type of primer -
"Rust-O-Leum"? (SP?)
Use good caulk - "Quad", "Solar-Seal" ...
No silicone.
If the frames are in good condition, thereis a conversion kit available fom Andersen. It will replace th jamb liners and sash and make it into their tilt wash double hung. Very esy to install s well.
For cutting, what about a Rockwell Versacut? Never used one for that purpose but I have the tool and it seems like that would work. Use with a metal cutting blade. You can adjust the depth of the blade to your needs. Google it.
Might be too cumbersome, but maybe just a regular circular saw with the blade installed backward or with a metal blade. It works good for cutting steel and aluminum soffit material.
have used a skilsaw for cutting this stuff and when the siding is on the house, it would be way to cumbersome. don't know about a versacut. will have to check it out. thanks
We don't deal with steel too much, but we cut back siding with a skill saw on a regular basis (aluminum, wood, etc). A good cordless unit works great, especially up on a ladder.
You can cut back siding with whatever saw will work.
The only consideration with Steel Siding - most manufacturers consider the
warranty void if you use a saw -
Use a "shear", "power-snips", snips ...
Prime the cut edges with anti-rust paint - no matter what you use to cut.
rossfingal
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