Can you put a 20 lbs. plywood on a interior, hollow wooden door?

Leah Frances

So, OP, please know that this post does not reflect the general attitude of the forum.

Also if you try and fill your door with spray foam it could 'pop' your door apart.

OP, keep us updated.

__________________
If I could only remember to THINK about what I was doing before I did it.

DangerMouse

Agreed, even the blue can would at least swell the door.
Why not just get a 2" foam sheet and glue it to one side?

DM

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Click
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
to see some of my original magic tricks and trick boxes!

Bud Cline

...or acoustic ceiling panels?

The ceiling panels won't look any worse than the plywood and they actually have a small sound deadening factor. I've never known plywood to be a sound proof-er.

Leah Frances

Just talk to DH @ this thread. He suggested 'mass loaded vinyl/ butyl rubber sound dampener' covered with a closed cell foam. It's 'peel-and-stick' then you spray on An adhesive and cover it with closed cell foam.

Good Husband, I hadn't thought of this and I've installed lots of it in cars (often in doors . The flat surface of a door would be EZ!

Commonly referred to as 'Dynamat' you can buy it cheaply from car-audio places.

Google it.

__________________
If I could only remember to THINK about what I was doing before I did it.

pjordan4477

Sorry it came off with an attitude. I could have better stated that the idea was a bit immature or juvinile, for the purpose of sound proofing.

Using spray foam will not pop a hollow door open, if you don't spray a whole can in one corner. Multiple holes and spray points will keep it even. "Great Stuff" would not pop a door open unless the door was extremely old or poorly made. It doesn't expand like the commercial spray foam for insulating. It should be noted that spray the foam in the door should be done with the door up right, while spraying down through the hole, allowing the foam to drop on the inside, and not get over compacted in the spray point spot.

I just did this 2 weeks ago to my down stairs hollow core door (plain not 6 panel) that I hung to close off the laundry room from the rest of the basement. If you are worried about it popping, the sandwich the door between plywood during spraying to control the expansion.

pyper

Foam won't do anything.

It's the weight of the other items that will stop the noise. Mass absorbs sound.

I get the impression that for the green glue to do it's job you need to minimize the screws -- like one in each corner.

Do consider though, that if you have a habitat for humanity resale store in driving distance that you can buy a solid core door pretty cheaply. Mine has them for $10 right now.

rightit

I agree with Pyper. It's mass that dampens sound on the door, and although it could be accomplished with drywall and GG, You'll likely come close to what you'd pay for a solid core door, and much more in effort and mess, and results aren't guaranteed.

And it's worth mentioning again that you will need to address the areas where sound can 'flank' the the door. damping the door is important, but matters very little if the sound you're trying to block can just pass underneath or around.

This includes pulling the molding and 'filling' any open space between the stud and door frame, and addressing the gap underneath the door. You should also be aware that even though you 'soundproof' the door, you may have sound issues via any adjacent sheetrock walls. This doesn't mean that addressing the door area won't help, but it may not reduce the sound transmission to an acceptable level.

Anyone who has any experience with efficient methods of soundproofing will tell you that generally, it's going to cost more money and effort than you'd like to spend.

That said, if you own the house, if dropping the noise level in the room is important to you, I'd suggest researching the subjects at sites such as the one I posted in my earlier post (the article library at http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/ ).

Determine what your needs are and how much it would cost to meet them. It may seem a lot more involved than you anticipated (it usually is...), but it's well worth doing when done right.

Mark

Tizzer

I don't understand why the OP just doesn't install a solid door as suggested. Cutting in the third hinge isn't that hard. Easier than moving door stop because that added thickness now won't let the door close.
Boring new holes for the knob & the door catch will probably be off center.
If you glued/screwed or nailed the plywood on opposite side, it'll protrude into the room looking like crap.

DangerMouse

mass...mass....
hmmm.... instead of squirting GSFoam into the holes in that hollow door, just pour concrete in them!

Sound problem solved! Now... how do we hang a 1,000 LB. door? heh heh heh

DM

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Click
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
to see some of my original magic tricks and trick boxes!

baby327nd

Because I don't want to go through the trouble of installing a new door, because WHAT IF something goes wrong and then I will be stuck with no door! Besides, the door I have right now is very special to me!

So, someone suggested to me on another forum is that I glue it (using greenglue) the item below in front of the door (I don't care about how it looks, since I am going to move from that place in about two months anyway) and that will take care of the noise problem. But, before I do that, can I just use cement on just one side of the door? Will that work and will the door handle the additional weight?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

baby327nd

I have already installed a door sweep and any space coming from any side of the door and it did lower the sound of people's conversation and Tv's noise. Well I live in the attic, so I usually do not hear much noise and the walls around the door are not that much in lenght and height, so I will just glue drywall on top of it, and see how that goes.

pyper

No. It's just foam. It won't do much of anything. You need things that are heavy to stop sound.

You could use roofing felt. Put up 4 layers and screw it in. It will be heavy and smell funny when it heats up, but it's cheap and easy and easy to take down.

pjordan4477

Any suggestion that does not leave the door looking like a door is something you will have to undo later on.

Tizzer

That's what I'd do. Hang it right side up or the R-value will fall out....

DangerMouse

If mass helps, why not screw on some cement/fiber board like used for bath/kitchen/tile flooring? That's heavy, durable to an extent and pretty "massy".... it'd block more sound than foam, for sure. Cut to size easier too.

DM

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Click
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
to see some of my original magic tricks and trick boxes!