Can you put a 20 lbs. plywood on a interior, hollow wooden door?

baby327nd

I am asking because I don't want the door to fall off because of the extra weight glued and screwed on it. And do not want to install a new door, since I am afraid something might go wrong. The door is installed with 2 hinges and weights about 23-28 lbs and is a normal hollow interior wooden door. The plywood weights about 20-25 lbs.

So, if I glue and screw the plywood to the door, will the door able to withstand the extra weight and not fall off or be damaged because of it?

I am doing this because to soundproof my door so I will hear less noise from tvs and people chatting.

oh'mike

Very ,very doubtful------Three hinges---and that cheap door will not be able to hold onto any screws for very long---the wood strip on the hinge side is to thin and made of soft material.----Mike---

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baby327nd

its actually 2 hinges. But anyway, what if the plywood weight even less (like 13-15 lbs). will it work then?

Also, the door is more then 5 years old.

oh'mike

Doors are cheap--what are you trying to do? Why not just hang a better door?

Heavy doors use three hinges---occasionally,four.

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baby327nd

I want to do this because I want to soundproof my door. so since its hollow, Therefore, I will like to screw and glue a drywall or plywood to my door to lower noise level (along with seal it with door sweap, etc).

I do not know how to install a new door. Therefore, is it hard to install a new interior door?

firehawkmph

Baby,
if your door is only 5 years old, you should have no trouble finding the same type of door slab with a solid core instead of the hollow core. The slabs come with hinge pockets routed out and the hole for the lockset drilled. You can also get the slab without any machining. They are relatively inexpensive and not that hard to hang. I'm sure you can find some videos on utube showing how to hang a door. Much better solution than the plywood route.
Mike Hawkins

rightit

And if your goal is to soundproof, don't forget sealing with good weather stripping and a threshold that seals. No point in soundproofing the door if sound just comes in (or out) through the openings.

Here's a good link to an automatic door bottom seal:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...c_door_bottom/


You may also find articles of much interest in the Library. I'm creating a soundproof room and have read extensively on the subject. I've found the methods here to make the most sense:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/

Mark

baby327nd

Also, can someone, from experience, tell me if they have done this or not?

Leah Frances

Swapping a door is EZ. You can do it... if you are willing to try we are willing to help.

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pyper

I've thought about it.

Here's something to look at: examine the edge of the door the hinges are screwed into. I have some doors that aren't very old that aren't doing a good job of holding themselves up. This edge, on the doors in question, is particle board, and it doesn't do a good job holding screws.

Two hinges with a particle board edge, forget about adding any more weight to it. If it's a wooden edge, maybe. The key would be the screws. If they're short they'll probably pull out. Long ones will hold, but I'd add another hinge for good measure.

I woudln't bother with glue. Just put it up with a few screws. You might change your mind.

And definitely what rightit said. If you haven't sealed the surround yet do that first and then see if you still have a problem.

Ron6519

Why don't you tell us why you're planning this, as the suggestions might be more helpful.
Ron

baby327nd

My door does have wooden door and I will be using greenglue to make it even more soundproof and plus screws.

Anyway, instead of dryboard or plywood, can I use these to lower noise level (because they weight much less and I will be buying 2-3 of the same item to compensate for the thickness!):

Shop Dow 1/2" x 8' x 4' R-3.3 Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulated Sheathing at Lowes.com

Shop 5-1/2" Foam Sill Seal at Lowes.com

Owens Corning Foamular F250 3/4 in. x 24 in. x 96 iin. Tongue & Groove Foam - 526657 at The Home Depot

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Ma...atalogId=10053

Thanks for all your help!

Leah Frances

Give us some pics when you're done.

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Bud Cline

What about the extra door thickness as it would relate to the k-nob? How's that gonna work?

AllanJ

Most hollow core doors have a honeycomb of corrugated cardboard strips inside dividing the interior into compartments of about one square foot each. Their exact shape and positioning may be unpredictable. It is necessary to drill perhaps two dozen holes scattered over one surface of the door to insert the straw into each compartement to fill with foam. If you drill holes only in the side and top and bottom edges, the foam won't get to much of the middle of the door.

Before filling a compartment with foam, poke a coat hanger wire into a hole in the door face to feel around for the honeycomb and get an idea of where to cut the hole for the next compartment inside.

Everything is not lost, you can fasten the plywood over the face of the door you made all the holes in for added soundproofing also.

How I did one ---> http://www.cockam.com/theater.htm#Doors

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