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-   -   Basement window fixing, adhesive? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/basement-window-fixing-adhesive-168321/)

fastmodena 01-05-2013 04:30 PM

Basement window fixing, adhesive?
 
We had our home built in August. Now I am starting to finish my basement but noticed the windows down there are not sealed properly. So I am sealing them and the second one I noticed is not sealed but also loose.

The windows are 4x4 in poured concrete foundation. There is no metal or wood frames just concrete notches that the windows are sealed to. They are not screwed to the foundation in any way and not really any room to screw them into the foundation.

I can push on the upper right hand of the window an inch or 2 to the outside. The windows can not be pushed to the inside because of the concrete notch.

It seems like a silicone type adhesive was used in each corner of the window between the vinyl window and concrete. What kind of adhesive should I use in the corner to fix this?

You can see from the pictures of what is currently in place.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8...04fc75f22f.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8...2efea72ca8.jpghttp://farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8...a206098f5a.jpg

joecaption 01-05-2013 04:41 PM

Someone messed up. At a ba re minumium there should have been Tap Con screws use inside the tracks screwed to the concrete to keep the window from moving.
On the outside most often you'll see vinyl brick moulding used to trim out the window then low expanding foam is used to fill any gaps, not silicone.
If the plan is to finish out the basement There should be jamb extentions made that will hid the gaps on the outside edges.

rossfingal 01-05-2013 05:00 PM

House built in August?
I think you should go back to whoever built it and ask -
"WTF" is this?!?
Not even "close" to being acceptable!!
STUPID!!!

joecaption 01-05-2013 05:11 PM

Just looking at the sloppy foundation work should have sent up a red flag.

fastmodena 01-05-2013 05:43 PM

I agree the foundation work is crappy. Not much I can do now.

The inside gaps were filled with "Great Stuff" type stuff. I removed that out to see what was going on with the window. Then noticed the windows are put into the concrete and only caulked with silicone type stuff at each corner. There are concrete notches to not allow the window to fall into the inside.

I was hoping to fix the windows myself cause I am sure I can do a better job than they can. The other windows are not moving but they need sealed better from drafts and potential water.

What should I do now to fix this?

joecaption 01-05-2013 05:56 PM

I've all ready posted what to do.

Windows on Wash 01-06-2013 11:44 AM

Not the best work I have seen and I am not sure I would want the guy that did that to come back to fix it.

Cut away the extra and seal the rest with a proper exterior sealant in whatever color you want. The sealant, while not ideal attachment methodology, will hold it in place just fine assuming that the foundation is falling apart of has a sandy texture.

fastmodena 01-06-2013 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1087475)
Not the best work I have seen and I am not sure I would want the guy that did that to come back to fix it.

Cut away the extra and seal the rest with a proper exterior sealant in whatever color you want. The sealant, while not ideal attachment methodology, will hold it in place just fine assuming that the foundation is falling apart of has a sandy texture.

Exactly my thoughts. I have a warranty but don't trust them to do it right anyway. I can do most things around the house including electrical and plumbing, I am brand new to windows however. I just knew they were not right and now looking for my best option to fix them.

These windows have no place to screw them into anything. The same windows are in the rest of the house with no screws visible. I was thinking to tapcon them into the concrete anyway even though the screws would be showing, use Sonolastic at the same time to seal the window, and on the interior use low expanding foam to weather proof it. Sound right?

joecaption 01-06-2013 12:05 PM

Look inside the tracks where the sashes are. Most will have predrilled conter sunk hole where the screws should have gone to hold them in place.
There not going to show it there in the track and a small dab of paint is used to hide them.

fastmodena 01-06-2013 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1087502)
Look inside the tracks where the sashes are. Most will have predrilled conter sunk hole where the screws should have gone to hold them in place.
There not going to show it there in the track and a small dab of paint is used to hide them.

I looked at the windows and there is nowhere that was meant for screws on these windows that I can see. Here is some pics to help. There is no paint imperfections or dipples.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8080/8...5449c8baf5.jpg

Right side of window.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8373/8...0d0b7c2264.jpg

Looking down at the bottom track that keeps the window gliding smooth.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8332/8...95ce35f646.jpg

The top of window. There are those 2 clip looking things that I have no clue what the purpose is? I can slide them or take them out and they do not affect the window at all.

I appreciate all the help by the way. Please forgive my newbie ignorance when it comes to windows.

Windows on Wash 01-06-2013 12:33 PM

It is probably one of those cast in style hoppers. Just seal it up and you should be fine.

Duckweather 01-06-2013 01:06 PM

In the pocket where the window enters when closed you should be able to drill the holes Joe is talking about. Then use Tapcon, or Consert or whatever brand of concrete screws. The head may tighten up so it is flush with surface, but drilling a countersink may go through depending on thickness of vinyl. On the outside remove and clean out all old sealant you can. If the gap is large use backer rod to fill the gap leaving about 1/4" from backer to surface for new sealant. I would use elastomeric sealant because it adheres to dissimilar materials, stretches almost 100% and returns to original, if you cut into most they will reseal the cut, most have a 50 year warranty. They remain flexible, and can be painted. Lexcel is a good brand. If the tube does not say it is flammable look for one that does, and look for tubes with the latest date of manufacture as it has short shelf life compared to others. Tremco is another good sealant used on commercial greenhouses, very expensive, and you may have to tell them you are a contractor to buy it.


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