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-   -   Anderson 'A' series windows. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/anderson-series-windows-126366/)

razzorm 12-12-2011 08:46 AM

Anderson 'A' series windows.
 
2 Attachment(s)
Anderson 'A' series double hung window problem.

***Moderator edited*** http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/how-si...ct-site-37099/

LMPD 12-12-2011 09:03 AM

Where the windows vinyl, aluminum or wood? Just curious.

razzorm 12-12-2011 09:38 AM

Window type
 
Window is vinyl new construction.

Windows on Wash 12-12-2011 04:31 PM

While Andersen makes a decent wood window when you get into their 400 series, their vinyl and replacement windows (RBA) are just average if not below.

Sorry to hear of your issues.

joecaption 12-12-2011 04:48 PM

One of the many reasons I will not deal with Anderson or Pella.

Tom Struble 12-12-2011 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by razzorm (Post 791939)
Window is vinyl new construction.


A- series is all Fiberex not vinyl

Windows on Wash 12-12-2011 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 792371)
A- series is all Fiberex not vinyl

+1

Fibrex (albeit mostly vinyl by constitution although they trash vinyl).

HomeSealed 12-13-2011 11:01 AM

Razz, open the upper and lower sash so that you can see about 1/4" of light on each. Are those reveals even all the way across?

It is standard procedures for most if not all manufacturers to ship the windows unlocked. This usually does make for a harder lock until the seals break-in, however it should improve relatively quickly.

oberon 12-13-2011 03:53 PM

Andersen A series is pultruded fiberglass not fibrex except for the jamb liners.

100 series is fibrex

Tom Struble 12-13-2011 08:55 PM

thanks for straightening me out Oberon:)

rossfingal 12-14-2011 06:59 AM

What it looks like from your 2nd picture - the latch-side, of the sash-lock -
is not installed in the right place.
(Too close to the upper sash)
This can happen with any manufacturer - dozens.
Remove the latch/lever side -
Fill the existing screw holes -
Let the filler set up -
Close the window -
Position the lever and engage the lock -
Carefully mark the position of the new screw-holes (Sharp, center-punch)
Pre-drill the new screw holes (Carefully! - with a drill size smaller than the
thickness of the screws -do not drill too deep!) -
Reinstall the latch.
Do not over-tighten the screws!!!!
We've had to do this way too many times!!!

If you're not comfortable doing this - find a "Window and Door", person
in your area and have them look at it.
(Probably, don't mention this to "Customer Service"!!!) :)
(Andersen - "Customer Service" ????!!!) Huh!!!???
This problem is not uncommon!

rossfingal

razzorm 12-14-2011 01:10 PM

Moving the sash lock
 
To Rossfingal

Yours is a good sugestion but--
The sash lock when turned the oposite way of locking the window pulls in the tabs on the outside of the sash that allows the lower sash to tilt in for cleaning.
I have removed the sash lock screws and there is no movement allowed in the sash lock.

I like the window overall but this issue with thier top line window just is not satisfactory to me.

I need 12 more windows but I don't think they will be Anderson.

Anderson customer service is a joke. They submit my concerns to the area Anderson rep. who tells them it is a customer issue and cancels the service call.

HomeSealed 12-14-2011 10:37 PM

Razz, what is the answer to my previous question?:
"Razz, open the upper and lower sash so that you can see about 1/4" of light on each. Are those reveals even all the way across?"

Please post pics if possible, as it will either confirm your strong, negative opinions on the product, or expose a poor installation.

razzorm 12-15-2011 11:48 AM

To HomeSealed
 
3 Attachment(s)
Added pictures to show that window is square, level and plumb.

WendyG 12-15-2011 12:32 PM

A Series
 
My name is Wendy and I work at Andersen. I would liketo talk with you about your window situation. Please contact me @651-264-5963.


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