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Old 03-31-2013, 01:02 PM   #16
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Aluminum Window Replacement


Hand drive, you are correct the current width is about 2.5" i will cut back the interior jambs. As i tyvek the exterior i will also bring the tyvek into the rough opening and flexwrap the sill.

Do you shim the bottom nailer for water egress? Seen that in a video.

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Old 03-31-2013, 01:36 PM   #17
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"Do you shim the bottom nailer for water egress" never heard of that one.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:50 PM   #18
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If you do not remove the sheetrock returns on the window I see no way to get the shims in or inject the expanding foam in between the rough opening and the back sides of the window jambs for a proper seal.
You'll just be counting on the caulking joint around the drywall.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:19 PM   #19
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Sorry wasnt detailed in my question.

Heres a link to the video. Notice he uses horseshoe shims under the bottom nailer and drives a nail through it. Is this necessary?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2bzf...e_gdata_player
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:40 PM   #20
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Aluminum Window Replacement


I can see what there trying to do and like most of it but just not fully getting the silly washers.
I never saw them using a level, they looked like there not setting a double hung window, just a picture window that's easyer to set.
I may be wrong but I'm seeing where there's going to be a hump under the window pushing out the siding.
I've set hundreds of windows, never had a call back for a leak and never used those washers.
I've never even seen them mentioned in any install directions, on any window companys web site or even for sale anyplace I buy my windows.

Last edited by joecaption; 03-31-2013 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:41 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
If you do not remove the sheetrock returns on the window I see no way to get the shims in or inject the expanding foam in between the rough opening and the back sides of the window jambs for a proper seal.
You'll just be counting on the caulking joint around the drywall.

that is always the issue with replacement windows (getting insulation in the void between the rough opening and backside of replacement window jamb) and it is even more so an issue when using new construction windows in a replacement window setting though the new window fins are much better.

probably better off pulling off the drywall toward the interior of the wall past the outside metal corner bead and re installing trim(window casing) with wood jamb extensions in place of the drywall. this would allow full exposure to the backside of the jambs and with a 4 5/8" window jamb on the replacement window- jamb stops would not even be needed, just new window trim...

Last edited by hand drive; 04-01-2013 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:22 AM   #22
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Aluminum Window Replacement


Follow-up to window project. I have gone with new construction windows. I replaced all old aluminum sliders with new vinyl single hung windows. I must say it's so nice to have a window stay open and feel clean breezes!

scrapped all the aluminum siding and windows, about 950lbs of aluminum. Sills were in great condition. Had to cut back the sheet rock returns about 1/2".

Next up is to refinish the old window stools, rip to new size, paint, and repeat for all the other windows. Going with a piece of trim to conceal the drywall to window gap.

window mfg installed the wrong size balances on 6 of 8 windows. block and tackle style so the correct ones were sent and i replaced easily - just an inconvenience.

Thanks for the replies.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:06 AM   #23
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You'd sure quickly get to understanding the colored horseshoe shim requirements if you installed in Florida. Many municipalities have (for about 20 -25 years) specified these particular shims so the inspectors can easily see if you met the maximum of 1/4" spacing their codes call for.

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