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-   -   Yes, Another Basement Insulation Question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f103/yes-another-basement-insulation-question-181645/)

DSee 06-11-2013 04:02 AM

Yes, Another Basement Insulation Question
 
Planning insulation/framing basement walls.

After reading http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...g-your-basment , this is what I plan on doing:
Drylok walls, XPS 2" secured by 2x3 or 2x4, then Drywall (0.5 or 5/8).

It seems like my area (Massachusetts), requires a minimum of R-10/R-13 for basement walls. I believe the XPS 2" = R-10, is this correct? Or do I still need to add fiberglass insulation (R-13)?

Am I missing anything else?

Windows on Wash 06-11-2013 06:49 AM

I wouldn't worry about the Drylok.

If you have moisture issues, that stuff isn't going to stop anything.

R-10 is about right for 2" XPS.

You would still want to fill the stud wall cavity and make sure that the drywall is airtight. Be sure to seal up the ribbon boards and insulate prior to drywalling in and go with either roxul for the batt insulation or high density FG batts.

DSee 06-11-2013 08:23 AM

Wow. Thanks for the quick reply.
I stopped by my local Home Depot and the Xps costs almost $20 per piece... That means it will cost me around $1000, just for the XPS insulation... WOW :)
Well over my budget... but I guess there is no other option, right?

DSee 06-11-2013 11:38 AM

Me again...
Considering the high price of XPS, are these any other cheaper/comparable way of insulating my 1000sq ft basement? Or is XPS the ONLY way to go?


EDIT1: Maybe I could use the 1" XPS instead of 2"? Thoughts?
PS: I was going to use drylock to keep the "walls in place" (100 year old)

DSee 06-11-2013 06:43 PM

Thanks again.
I think we can close this thread. I am probably going to open another one for a different subject.... Home improvement is so fun.. Specially when you don't know what you're doing :)

I appreciate the help Windows on Wash.


I will try to post some pictures when the job is done.

Windows on Wash 06-12-2013 07:17 AM

Try to see if there are some foam recyclers in your area. Sometimes you can find very good XPS that is being pulled off a building for cheap.

Gary in WA 06-12-2013 11:38 PM

What is closest large city? http://www.diychatroom.com/f103/base...9/#post1200229

Gary
PS. Post #10, 11; http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/basem...ng-xps-175130/

DSee 06-14-2013 08:20 AM

Providence, RI
Taunton, MA
North Attleboro, MA

I think they would be the 3 closest "largest" cities.

Gary in WA 06-15-2013 03:27 PM

R-5 XPS will work. The 2x4 frame wall is great for code-required wiring/outlets and R-13 f.g. Basement air at 68*F, with 31*F average lowest three months per location gives you foamboard cavity side face temp (Delta T) of 42*F with 38% Relative Humidity. Stay below that or control it with a D.H.

Gary

DSee 06-26-2013 08:09 PM

4 Attachment(s)
I've started to get the basement ready for insulation/framing, and discovered a few things that I need help with.

1- There are 2 oil tanks against the corner, which will make it almost impossible to frame/insulate.
Should I frame around the oil tanks, and put some kind of "window" for maintenance?
*Removing the tank exceeds my budget (estimates are $500+) *

2- Discovered a cut floor joist right below the bathroom's vanity.
There's a single support from below but I'm not sure that is enough/acceptable. Thoughts?

3- One of the basement walls is open and leads to the garage & backyard door. None of the areas is finished, and I'm afraid if I don't frame a wall there cold/hot air will come through that area.
Should I frame a wall at that spot (closing the basement)? I'm attaching a picture for better understanding. (4th pic)

4- There are 7 windows in the basement. (2 vinyl, 5 wood). The ones made of wood are old and have been painted black/dark colors, so you can't really see anything from both sides. What's the best way to deal with them? Does code require me to leave them as is?
Do I have to frame around them, or can I just frame the entire wall, pretending they're not even there?

Thanks!

jburchill 06-27-2013 01:02 PM

I would try to remove the oil tanks if they are not in use. I had one about the same size and I cut the pipes and dragged it out. Make sure its empty before you move it.

I was able to drag it out myself, only reason I did it by myself was too stubborn to ask for help and I liked the challenge. Once I got it out of its spot I put it on some old paneling and slid it out the door.

I did luck out that my dad worked for a salvage yard that collects metal and had access to a flat bed to haul it away for free.

Gary in WA 06-27-2013 11:52 PM

What is the ceiling height under the floor joists?

Under the beam?

Window egress for bedrooms other than the one yard door?

Waste plumbing elevated leave headroom with drop ceiling?

Gary

DSee 06-29-2013 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jburchill (Post 1207970)
I would try to remove the oil tanks if they are not in use. I had one about the same size and I cut the pipes and dragged it out. Make sure its empty before you move it.

I was able to drag it out myself, only reason I did it by myself was too stubborn to ask for help and I liked the challenge. Once I got it out of its spot I put it on some old paneling and slid it out the door.

I did luck out that my dad worked for a salvage yard that collects metal and had access to a flat bed to haul it away for free.

One of the tanks is still active and is the main source of heating.
The tank closest to the wall has been "sealed off", and is just in the way.

I check for any remaining oil inside the unused tank and how hard it is to remove it. From what I've heard, this is "not" a DIY project, specially in my state, where "reported spills" could turn into 5+ digit fines by the state and the environmental agencies...

What if removing it is not a possibility, what would you be your suggestion?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 1208268)
What is the ceiling height under the floor joists?

Under the beam?

Window egress for bedrooms other than the one yard door?

Waste plumbing elevated leave headroom with drop ceiling?

Gary

Heights:
Bottom of Floor Joists = 7' 3"
Bottom of Center Beams (6"x8" wood) = 6' 7"
Kitchen plumbing (crosses about 30% of basement) = 6' 3"
Heating plumbing (crosses about 25% of basement) = 6' 1"

I don't plan on finishing the ceiling for now. The low kitchen + heating plumbing would make it very hard with my current budget, specially if I decide to take the drop ceiling route.

My plan for now is focus on framing the exterior walls and start from there.

Also, every bedroom (1st floor) has at least 2 windows. There's also 2 exits from the 1st floor (front and rear door), and 3 in basement (basement to backyard, garage entrance, tool storage entrance, which is behind the garage). Let me know if this is what you were asking.



I'm leaning towards doing the following:
- Frame the entire wall and forget the old windows exist.
- Frame around oil tanks, leave some kind of door/access panel leading to the functional tank
- Re-enforce cut floor joist. It seems like it's not being used by anything (other than an power cable being routed there)

Please let me know if there are any other suggestions/comments! I'm open to anything!! Thanks again.

DSee 07-01-2013 11:11 AM

Anyone? :)

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: :laughing:

lucid484 07-06-2013 07:10 PM

I also live in Massachusetts and I am going this road..http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/...sement_Eng.pdf

I already have roxul comfortbatt R-30 in the headers...Awesome stuff to work with and moisture resistant!!!


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