The paper facing will stop most of the moisture trying to go to the crawlspace (doing its job well). The poly sheeting will stop all moisture going either way. Ideally, I would replace the poly with foam board for its insulating qualities will keep the wall cavity below the dew point for no condensation (wall cavity is warm). Because the poly has no insulating value, you run a great moisture risk from exfiltration of the bathroom air condensing on the poly wetting the fiberglass losing 60-70% R-value; http://archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/eng/ib...ling-heat.html
ADA the drywall: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/
Paper facing has variable perms, it lets more moisture through the wetter it gets (it would still dry to the inside room), poly is bad: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...vapor-barriers
Deep-six the poly with no insulating qualities, and add f.b. The paper facing can be left on IF
the f.b. is thick enough, read page 2 and notice the varying thicknesses
with varying perm interior vapor retarders
, pp. 10-14
for your Zone 5 location: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...nd-wall-design
It all hinges on if the cavity is warm enough to prevent condensation due to R-value of the foam for the degree of interior vapor retarder.
Foil-faced (pp.14) is acceptable left exposed in most crawl spaces, check with your local AHJ on fire code requirements to make sure. OR, reuse the poly (over unfaced f.b.) if f.b. is thick enough, still need an ignition barrier on crawl space side.
Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets.
They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money.
Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!