DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (
-   Insulation (
-   -   Vapor barrier in addition to paperbacked in MS?? (

forcedreno2012 12-14-2012 09:27 PM

Vapor barrier in addition to paperbacked in MS??
Is it advisable to add an additional plastic vapor barrier to the paper backed insulation for a house in MS? The exterior walls are wood siding then foam board then the insulation and then drywall.

When we put the insulation back is it worth putting a plastic vapor barrier between the insulation and the drywall? I know this is common up north with the winters but would anything be gained by doing this down south where it gets really humid.


Gary in WA 12-14-2012 10:12 PM

No plastic vapor barrier or vapor retarder. Paper faced insulation is fine if not asphalt covered paper faced, keep it vapor open to dry inside, pp.14;

Other helpful hints, pp.31-33 and all the rest;


Windows on Wash 12-15-2012 10:00 AM

Putting a vapor barrier in your climate on the cold side wall would be about the most disastrous thing you could do.

If you were going to have any vapor barrier, it would be on the outside wall and not the inside wall.

forcedreno2012 12-16-2012 02:46 AM

Thanks guys,

So if I am interpreting this right, no plastic vapor barrier and for the paper backed insulation put the paperside to the outside of the house. If this is true how do you staple the stuff when installing? - smoosh it in then staple then fluff or have I really got it backwards?

Windows on Wash 12-16-2012 09:23 AM

Whats the exterior of the home construction?

forcedreno2012 12-16-2012 02:19 PM

WOW , from the outside in....

Originally - it was wood siding, black brick board (some type of black board filled with almost like particle board cardboard) and then the framing and R-7 insulation then drywall and a million coats of paint etc.

Now - with the flood we have been replacing as much of the black board with a rigid foam as we have had to replace a bunch of siding. The foam board is white bout an inch thick and has silver backing on both sides. It has a whopping R value of 3. We are also replacing the R-7 we found with R-13 all the way up on the exterior walls, so I know this is an improvement. There is no house wrap of any kind. Not able to strip the walls at one time to put it on so we are doing as best we can.


forcedreno2012 04-21-2013 10:25 PM

Getting ready to put the insulation back in and I don't think I got the final answer on where the paper on the insulation goes is it paper against the outside wall or the inside wall. They had it both ways.


Nailbags 04-22-2013 12:09 AM

You put it in paper facing to the warm side of the home in your case to outside wall. don't need to staple anything just put it in and don't squish the batts.

forcedreno2012 04-22-2013 11:39 PM

Thanks.. that makes sense we had it the other way round in WV.

Gary in WA 04-22-2013 11:56 PM

Page 14 in the first link given in Post 2 explains it well... what type of wood siding?


forcedreno2012 04-23-2013 07:24 PM

Sorry WOW I did read the article back when you posted it and promptly forgot. We hoofed the bales of wall insulation into the house today. Heck those things weigh a ton when compacted.

The wall is from outside in

Wood siding 4 x 8 grooved sheets 1/2 inch thick.
Brick insulation (bout r - 3)
and then the studs and the soon to be insulation.


Gary in WA 04-23-2013 10:15 PM

Usually, the T-1-11 structural siding goes directly on the studs for for shear value. The black Celotex was under what?

What siding was removed, brick veneer?


forcedreno2012 04-24-2013 12:51 AM

Gary the house was moved to its current location a few years ago. It was actually brick that was removed and not a veneer.

The fiberboard is behind the wood siding the fiberboard is nailed in and then the wood siding is over the top of that.

As we have replaced the siding with the flood issues we have replaced the brick board with a foil backed foam of the same thickness. I would say that over the last year we have replaced approximately 80 percent of the brickboard. As for the shear factor, you should by stock in screws...those panels are NOT coming off short of a tornado. We even went over where the other panels were nailed in and screwed those in as well for added protection. (And I have drill blisters to prove it :laughing:)


forcedreno2012 04-24-2013 12:58 AM

And thanks for the link. Interesting that there are so many different kinds. was interesting to read that none of them like water..but I think we know that.

Gary in WA 04-24-2013 11:07 PM

Is it T-1-11? That product requires installation directly on the studs/underlayment plywood. You cannot get shear value at the corners/every 25' through the foamboard. Foamboard, especially foil-faced is wrong in your proposed application;
"in the old days, before foam sheathings and OSB, moisture was redistributed into the exterior sheathing (board sheathing, plywood, and fiberboard) relieving the moisture stress on wood siding that happens when the front is really dry and the back is really wet.

This hydric redistribution does not happen with wood sidings over foam sheathings, especially ones with a foil facing. Airspace is necessary to help redistribute the moisture. Not much of an air space, 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch, will do." From; removed bad link.

You need sheathing at the corners for wall shear resistance and an air space between f.f. foam/T-1-11;

Fig.6, pp. 11, the foamboard will act as your drainage plane:


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:49 PM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1