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Old 05-10-2011, 09:33 AM   #16
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sound proofing walls


Hi Mark,

Many people are inclined to install the insulation horizontally, essentially weaving the insulation back and forth between the staggered studs. This causes compressed pinch points when the drywall is installed. Much better to install the insulation vertically as best as you can. R13 is the insulation you want. You can use kraft paper faced insulation also.

Just avoid compressing, and remember that you simply want the least expensive insulation you can find. Anything that says "acoustic" is likely sold at a premium.

Thanks,

Ted

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Old 05-12-2011, 07:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ted White View Post
Hi Mark,

Many people are inclined to install the insulation horizontally, essentially weaving the insulation back and forth between the staggered studs. This causes compressed pinch points when the drywall is installed. Much better to install the insulation vertically as best as you can. R13 is the insulation you want. You can use kraft paper faced insulation also.

Just avoid compressing, and remember that you simply want the least expensive insulation you can find. Anything that says "acoustic" is likely sold at a premium.

Thanks,

Ted
Hi Ted, thanks for your remarks. I'm actually planning on installing it vertically (cutting 8" strips) between the existing wall studs and the staggered studs. Also, I intend to place it against the existing hung drywall of the adjacent room, stapling it against the studs, paper facing the new space.
Any problem with this? Should I bring it farther out to avoid contact with the existing sheetrock, sort of 'floating'? I've been so obssessive about sealing every possible path for sound, I may as well obssess over the insulation too. .

Thanks again,
Mark
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:05 PM   #18
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Just don't compress the insulation and you'll be fine. If anything try to "fluff" it up as you install it.
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:48 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by dberladyn View Post
Just don't compress the insulation and you'll be fine. If anything try to "fluff" it up as you install it.
There ya go!
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:11 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by rightit View Post
Hi Ted, thanks for your remarks. I'm actually planning on installing it vertically (cutting 8" strips) between the existing wall studs and the staggered studs. Also, I intend to place it against the existing hung drywall of the adjacent room, stapling it against the studs, paper facing the new space.
Believe it or not, I'm just getting the time to get back to this project and am determined to finish the entire addition in the next month. I'm about to get my framing rough-in inspection, so insulating is next.

Refresher: Staggered stud wall on 2x6 plate, double 5/8 sheetrock w/GreenGlue on both sides of the wall, acoustic sealant for seams, putty pads for outlets.


I plan on blown-on cellulose on the outside walls and, frankly, would like as simple of solution for the staggered wall I mentioned earlier in the thread (this wall will require a lot of cutting and fitting for the r-13 pink).

The worry is that the cellulose might 'short circuit' the decoupled wall if it's touching both sides of the stagger.

So the question is:

1) Is cellulose or foam as effective as R-13 pink if thickness is limited so as not to touch both sides of the staggered wall?

2) If it's not as effective, how much difference in STC at the given frequency are we talking about?

Thanks!
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:20 AM   #21
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If the cellulose was a low-density blow, you'd be fine. The concern regarding cellulose is when it's blown in to an existing wall or ceiling. The insulaton can get hung up and compress in spots, allowing conduction to occur, partially re-coupling the two sides of the wall.

Foam is to be avoided at all costs when soundproofing. While foam is superior to fiber insulation for thermal purposes, both open and closed cell foam is too dense and rigid for what we want.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:27 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Ted White View Post
If the cellulose was a low-density blow, you'd be fine. The concern regarding cellulose is when it's blown in to an existing wall or ceiling. The insulaton can get hung up and compress in spots, allowing conduction to occur, partially re-coupling the two sides of the wall.

Foam is to be avoided at all costs when soundproofing. While foam is superior to fiber insulation for thermal purposes, both open and closed cell foam is too dense and rigid for what we want.
Thanks for the fast response, Ted! I may just have to deal with the pink, then. As much effort and research as I've put into the soundproofing aspect of the wall, it'd be a shame to reduce its effectiveness and the 11th hour .

Thanks again,
Mark
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:30 AM   #23
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Sure thing. Again, the cellulose isn't a risk in open walls as you have (they're still open, right?) as long as the installer knows we want a light, low-density application. Otherwise, cellulose is excellent. If I were you, that's what I'd use, not fiberglass. The guys will be there pumping, and I'd just have them do the staggered stud wall, too.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:57 AM   #24
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Sure thing. Again, the cellulose isn't a risk in open walls as you have (they're still open, right?) as long as the installer knows we want a light, low-density application. Otherwise, cellulose is excellent. If I were you, that's what I'd use, not fiberglass. The guys will be there pumping, and I'd just have them do the staggered stud wall, too.
Now that makes my day . Again, thanks for your expertise!
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:07 PM   #25
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Sure is my pleasure. More questions = a better result
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:41 AM   #26
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Original text deleted.

Last edited by rightit; 04-26-2012 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:31 PM   #27
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Another question. I bought my Greenglue a year ago last march. I've recently used a bit, but the company I bought it from said it would stay good for about a year. I'm going to be sheetrocking in the next month or so. I think it'll be OK. ANy opinions to the contrary?

Also, is using adhesive in addition to screws a good or bad idea as far as sound transfer? 5/8 rock, doubled on two walls.

Thanks!

Last edited by rightit; 05-10-2012 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:37 PM   #28
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You should be good.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:41 PM   #29
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You should be good.
Thanks, Ted!
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:52 AM   #30
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Hi Ted. If you haven't tired of my questions yet, here's another .

I'm about to sheetrock and am wondering if there is any advantage to applying GG or Silenseal to the studs before drywalling?

This question occurs because I was pressing my ear against the existing wall studs and the staggered studs with a TV (with sound system) on (volume up) in the next room.

While the existing studs definitely telecscoped more sound, there still was a surprising amount of sound when my ear was pressed to the isolated studs. The current state of the wall is 5/8" drywall and GG over existing 1/2" in the adjacent space and 1.5" mineral wool between existing studs (mostly not touching the staggered studs and not compressed).

I'm sure that the the double drywall and GG I'll be hanging in the new space will make a difference, but want to make sure all the bases are covered while they can still be covered...

Thanks for all of your help!

Mark

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