should this wood be insulated?
After reading articles on building science website (see post on this site- airspace yes or no?) I'm wondering if all this wood should have some type of insulation over it or some type of thermal break. Out side is already sided with just house wrap and 1/2" ship lap pine. I live in north west central New Hampshire.Any thoughts? Thanks
That's a whole lot of lumber to hold up a ridge beam.
When we do one like that we have used 12" wide LVL's as the header, and run them from outside to outside of the doors so there's less support needed in the middle and wires can be run.
Electrical inspector may have something to say about there not being an outlet between those doors.
A layer of 1/2 blue foam insulation and some jamb extensions may be called for.
should this wood be insulated
Thanks for the reply. There was a redesign after the project go started. It originally did not call for two sliders to be on that wall, and it was quicker to use the 2x6's then have to wait for lam beam. electrical inspector/building inspector gave permission to notch out out "beam". Not going to. going with surface mount wire mold and box. Thanks again.
Looks like there may be a brown bear in your yard and the neighbor's trees are too tall.
Yes R-7- is lame for that location, soft wood lumber; http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procor...f/r-values.htm
Don't stuff f.g. around units; http://books.google.com/books?id=a29...(1995)&f=false
With your inset stapling above, air block f.g. batt ends against wind-washing leaving room for ventilation. This will also limit infiltration at the insulation/drywall interface resulting in convective loops if low density- what R-value? https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...M8l_EeA2F-qvvA
IMO, if affordable- add XPS before drywall on ceiling slope; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...n-roof-venting
PS. check the other post as I left another link (you need to air-seal to get benefit of "dead air").Need drywall wall backing above the header tops, even when floating it...
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