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Old 01-17-2012, 02:08 PM   #1
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R13 vs R13


Hey all, 1dumbquestion here with... well, a dumb question. I was looking at home depot for some insulation and they have R13 in 32' rolls or in precut batts. It's more than 40% more to buy them precut than in rolls. does that sound normal? Wow, now that I've typed it it really is a dumb question, it just seems that 40% is a lot to pay for act of cutting. Now that I've got your attention I'm remodeling an old house that had no insulation it has 2x4 walls and trusses, I was planning on R13 batts for the walls and spray in for the ceiling (currently there is no drywall so I could do something different). What is needed in the crawl space? I'm in Oregon. Thanks, 1
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:27 PM   #2
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R13 vs R13


1D,
I just bought a bunch of insulation at HD recently and noticed the same thing. Needless to say I bought the rolls that weren't precut. You have to watch the big box stores, they many times have similar items but charge a lot more for a little convenience.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:01 PM   #3
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convenience costs - isn't that the truth! I've found that the rolls work just as well anyway!
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:09 PM   #4
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http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:12 PM   #5
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Oh.. I guess there still was a question to answer
Good call joecaption - taking care of business!
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:12 PM   #6
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Just remember that R13 insulation in a wall gives you a wall much less than R13 (R10-11) because of the framing. Not like using XPS foam.

Dick
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:48 PM   #7
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R13 vs R13


Oregon has its own "specialty code" taken from the IRC prescriptive Code that Joe posted.

Always a good idea to check with the local AHJ. Notice R-15 is required below-grade walls, not listed R-13 on the other Code page.
http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/?state=Oregon

http://ecodes.biz/ecodes_support/fre...Efficiency.pdf

Gary
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Old 01-18-2012, 01:13 PM   #8
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I think the OP was interested in doing the project properly and not to the typical code minimums or the pink panther way.

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Old 01-18-2012, 09:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concretemasonry View Post
Just remember that R13 insulation in a wall gives you a wall much less than R13 (R10-11) because of the framing. Not like using XPS foam.

Dick
+1

Actually less for that matter. Even if you figure that your framing leaves a net clear of 80%, that still makes for and R-7.5 average.
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Old 01-18-2012, 09:55 PM   #10
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Good call, Dick. I'll get you started, don't use f.g.: The "biggest loser" in fiberglass insulation....

Gary
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Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets.
They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money.
Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:17 PM   #11
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Just don't complicate it and get into the problems with steel studs that really contribute to thermal short circuiting and loss of insulation between the studs.

Dick
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