DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

This light leaks air into attic, should I cover?

2K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  operagost 
#1 ·
I am going through the process of getting insullite boxes to cover my non ic can lights before I blow insulation. I saw I have this light in my water closet, which is 2 lights and an exhaust fan. The exhaust fan doesnt attach to any pipe, it just goes into the ceiling space, but from the attic you can see light so the box is obviously not air tight and AC/Heat from the living space can escape through this....since it is only one light, should I worry about sealing it up somehow or will it not make too much difference being in the master bathroom water closet...what is best practice here?

 
See less See more
1
#2 ·
Needs to be cover up and there needs to be a hose from the exhost to the outside. Through the roof or out the gable end whatever is closer.
If not your dumping hot moist air into the attic where it's going to cause mold and condinsation.
 
#5 · (Edited)
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...7D9B7E80C121EF12E32708AB51F7&selectedIndex=48

Here's a good picture if what can happen without running it to the outside.

As I said it need to be run out through an end wall or out the roof.
Wow thats not good. Can I run a flex hose from the vent across to the sofits and aim it down so it vents out the side of the roof or do I need to cut a hole in the side of my house or something somewhere?

Also, my other bathroom vent is the same thing...no vent to the outside. Can I connect both of these in some sort of Y connection and have one house vent outward somewhere or do they need to be separate? Sorry for the noob questions, just never done it before...
 
#6 ·
That pic is very informative! Thanks, Joe.

IMO, the gable end is always better; mass elevation of ducting leads to mass moisture entrapment inside duct, esp. flex, (straight pipe is best) and in snow country, roof vents tend to help create ice dams as they melt snow with room temps. Insulate/vapor barrier the ducting, caulk around the fan/light box at drywall; http://www.bpi.org/Web Download/Ins...Install_Certif_Scheme_Handbook_V1.3_DRAFT.pdf

Gary
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
Those are sewer gas vents, unless you want sewer gases and methane gas going into the room I would not suggest it.
And no the two bathrooms can not be tee together with one vent. The air would just blow into the other bathroom not out the vent.
 
#11 ·
Got it, only thing Im not sure of now is that I cant tell if its IC rated or not. It was buried in insulation when I found it so I assume its been ok all the years but I want to do it right. Should I just re bury it or build a box around it if I cant tell if its IC or non IC?
 
#13 ·
I just went up there and looked again, its just a black box. I assume that since the house was built in 1996 and all of the recessed lighting is non IC, that this will also be non IC.

IN this video, the guy says to just insulate around it and duct tape the holes in the box..but if Im going to blow R60 I would want to bury this unit.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1630938,00.html

So if non IC, insulate around and foil tape it up or cover it with a box and buy away?
 
#17 ·
Hey, you are all one family anyway, lol. A duplex/townhouse would not have joined exhaust vents, per fire-separation. Choose one; "A"- https://www.acwholesalers.com/brd10...ion/11990.ac?gclid=CNrUxdqBoLYCFap_QgodajoA_A

or "B"- http://www.ventingdirect.com/contin...-fitting-for-ducted-home-fan-systems/p1471567

I'd go with "B"; designed like plumbing waste fittings, not 1/2 of air-flow needs to turn at almost right angle to vent, lol. Use the straight end of connection for the bath farthest away for optimum pressure loss.
Bath fans have self-closing flappers at the motor to prevent incoming air flow. One duct from the "Y" would help reduce condensation in the whole system. Be sure to insulate the ducting, and a plastic wrap to prevent condensation on/in the pipes. Air/moisture goes right through fiberglass insulation= look at your furnace filters. They skipped that part on TOH video, as did the flashing above and under the next lap siding for water drainage not relying on caulking alone- 6-15 year life. So easy to use a metal roof flash while on the ladder... Par for them, about there, but not quite... I smile a lot while watching them.

Gary
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top