getting ready to blow in my attic
have some conflicting question to ask
do i need to build a baffle to go around my chimney flue?
i will be using blown in fibreglass
the chimney flue is only being used for my hot water tank
i was told by one contractor i dont need to as it doesnt produce much heat
Yes you do need it, and needs to be metal. Use metal and fire rated caulk to air seal around it.
so yah i was up there and cranked up the hot water tank, the flue never even changed temperatures
You won't feel the brick change temps esp. if there is a flue liner...
1.The idea is to air seal the sides of the chimney to stop your (already conditioned) room air from going up and out. (save money)http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021105092.pdf
2. It will stop a fire at each level (required per building codes minimum) instead of a basement/ground floor fire going directly to the attic, burning it down while the main fire is burning up; with you (hopefully not) in the middle. (save money)
3. It will stop contributing to the natural "stack effect" (save money); http://www.wag-aic.org/1999/WAG_99_baker.pdf
4. It will stop damp, humid basement/crawlspace air from wetting the roof framing, rotting, forcing replacement (save money)
5. If someone at a later date (after you move) adds another appliance, possibly wood-burning- to exhaust the gasses, it will be "to Code"- if all else is in order. (save money)
6. It will stop any convective loops next to the chimney, robbing your insulation of R-value.(save money)
7. It will stop rodents from basement/crawl to attic, to nest in your new insulation that you now need to pay an exterminator to remove. (save money)
Good advice by HomeSealed! Did I mention "save money"? Lol.
Page 16, #8--- pp. 19; http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildin...ing_report.pdf
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