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Old 11-26-2012, 09:48 AM   #1
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Insulating walkout basement wall


How should I insulate. Faced or unfaced batts with plastic? What should I do about the areas that have multiple studs nailed together.

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Old 11-26-2012, 04:07 PM   #2
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Where is the home?

Insulate the stud bays with high density batts or roxul. Looks like you are trying to air seal and good on you for doing it.

Seal the sill plate to poured wall connection as well as the rim boards. Spray foam is easiest on the rim boards.

Nothing to really do to insulate those studs unless you are doing it from the exterior.

If you create a stud wall to the interior if/when you finish the basement, the staggered stud wall will allow you to insulate that stud at that point.

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Old 11-26-2012, 04:41 PM   #3
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Sounds good. Should I use paper face or use unfaced and then cover with plastic. Oh yeah, house is in Columbus Ohio. Also, I know I can't put insulation where the studs are nailed together but should I cover that with a vapor retarder.

Last edited by bestways; 11-27-2012 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:53 AM   #4
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Are you going to be studding out the walls?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:54 AM   #5
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No, I don't think I will.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:35 AM   #6
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Insulating walkout basement wall


Whats he relative humidity level like inside the home?

A true vapor barrier is not indicated for your climate but something like and air barrier (i.e. Tyvek or other housewrap) would help.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:52 AM   #7
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Last night I bought paper faced batt insulation from lowes as this is what they suggested. They told me to staple to studs. They also told me to just leave the area where there are multiple studs alone and not to put anything there except the drywall. Does this sound like an okay plan?
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:11 PM   #8
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TAKE IT BACK!!! Get Roxul,so much easier to work with!!!! Hurry,before you start to itch!!!!
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:16 PM   #9
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With Roxul or f.g., you need a vapor retarder, per code for your location;

"R601.3 Vapor retarders. Class I or II vapor retarders are required on the interior side of frame walls in Zones 5, 6, 7, 8 and Marine 4.

Exceptions:

1. Basement walls. 2. Below grade portion of any wall. 3. Construction where moisture or its freezing will not damage the materials." Underline is mine. From: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...001_par003.htm

Since the wall is above grade (daylight basement) add the asphalt- faced f.g. or "Membrain" with Roxul; http://www.bestofbuildingscience.com...3-4_p37-40.pdf

The degree of vapor retarder depends on the cladding and foamboard, what do you have for siding? http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_6_par005.htm

May get by with just latex paint on drywall; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_par006.htm

Gary
P.S. Depends on the RH in the room as WoW said, cover the studs with a Class 2 against high humidity. ADA the drywall: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/


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Old 11-28-2012, 07:55 PM   #10
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+1

Air tight drywall with some paint or MemBrain if you are going with unfaced Roxul.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:10 AM   #11
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I'm w/ WOW. Columbus is not far from Cincinn, so you may want to read this if it applies to your house at all. I'd avoid a true vapor barrier in Ohio, myself. I know a sheet rocker near Cleveland who has never used, nor seen good results from, using poly in his area; been at it for 30 yrs. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...moisture-walls
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:49 PM   #12
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Thanks! Great information!
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:09 PM   #13
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Thanks! I will be posting another question soon regarding insulating part of the basement to finished. Great info!

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Old 11-30-2012, 08:13 AM   #14
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I am planning on finishing half of my basement and leaving the other half as storage. I am insulating all rim joist but only plan on insulating the walls of the finished side. I'm looking for the best option. I have 8" thick poured concrete walls that have a latex paint on them right now. Should I...

1- attach rigid foam boards to the concrete walls from floor to ceiling and caulk along floor and tape all seams. Build 2x4 walls in front of this.

2- attach rigid foam boards from ceiling and to about 8" above concrete floor to allow drying. I would caulk any gaps between concrete wall and foam board to prevent any gaps. Build 2x4 wall in front of this. I don't have any water issues. This would be a precaution to condensation or any other possible water issue later on.

3- skip the foam board on the concrete walls and build 2x4 wall in front of the concrete wall and insulate cavities with roxul or something like that.

My number 1 priority is to avoid mold. Any insulation value is a bonus. If it is better to avoid insulation to prevent mold I'm fine with that. I plan on covering the stud walls with drywall. I do have a wood stove in the basement and behind that is stone veneer that goes from floor to ceiling so there will not be insulation in that area which is about a 8ft x 8 ft area.

Any ideas is much appreciated!

Last edited by bestways; 11-30-2012 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:08 AM   #15
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1- attach rigid foam boards to the concrete walls from floor to ceiling and caulk along floor and tape all seams. Build 2x4 walls in front of this. air seal the foam, fill the studs w/ Roxul, and air seal the sheet rock. Do the whole basement, too, or the cold side will be robbing from the warm, defeating a lot of your gains, unless separated by an insulated wall.

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