This is a bit of a cross-topic post.
I've got a vaulted Eichler style ceiling in my L-shaped living room/dining room with tongue and groove boards over exposed "beams" that are really just two sistered 2x12s wrapped in cheap paneling. There's probably an inch or two of insulation above the boards but it isn't doing much to keep the room cool in the summer sun, even if the upstairs is perfectly cool. The thermostat is in this room. Additionally, we want to install cans to get more light in the rooms.
So I'm thinking of installing furring strips and drywall to the underside of the beam after installing some sort of insulation and cans. My questions are:
Thanks in advance
I've got a vaulted Eichler style ceiling in my L-shaped living room/dining room with tongue and groove boards over exposed "beams" that are really just two sistered 2x12s wrapped in cheap paneling. There's probably an inch or two of insulation above the boards but it isn't doing much to keep the room cool in the summer sun, even if the upstairs is perfectly cool. The thermostat is in this room. Additionally, we want to install cans to get more light in the rooms.
So I'm thinking of installing furring strips and drywall to the underside of the beam after installing some sort of insulation and cans. My questions are:
- The space between the drywall and current ceiling would be unventelated. Is that ok?
- What type of insulation should I use? I was thinking some sort of rigid foam, but there are many kinds. Or should I be using batt insulation? Spray foam is probaby cost prohibitive.
- What R-value should I target? Cost is a factor for sure, but I dont want to save a few bucks and then have insulation that doesn't do jack squat.
- Any specific recommendations on how to support the drywall and what orientation? The beams are about 40 inches apart and 4 inches thick, and from the outside wall to the apex is about 13.5 feet.
- What thickness drywall would you recommend?
Thanks in advance