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CRay 09-25-2012 12:15 PM

Injection foam insulation Questions
Hi All: My 45 yo stick trilevel is badly in need of residing on 2 walls of upper floor. The existing B&B Ceder siding is badly cupped, cracked and split, and I plan on removing it and replacing with WOOD T1-11. However, between the removal and installation of the new siding, I will have a contractor come in and fill the stud cavities with injection foam (original 1967 construction installed R-9 paper backed fiberglass). Thus, these questions. Will the foam contractor drill holes in the cavities for the squirt tube at the top, bottom, middle or some combination of these? Is there any way to validate that the expected foam has in fact been installed? At the risk of getting flamed, I offer the info that many times when I have contracted for something that is hidden at completion, I eventually find that the contractor shorted me in either quantity or quality. Thank You in advance for your comments. CRay

Windows on Wash 09-26-2012 06:55 AM

Most T1-11 is the exterior sheathing layer as well as the siding.

Once that is removed, you can clearly access the stud cavity and will not need to inject foam as it can be filled with traditional insulation materials that are not as expensive.

I would look into putting rigid foam up behind the new siding to benefit from some of the thermal break that you will get in that new wall assembly.

CRay 09-26-2012 11:15 AM

Windows, thanks for the comeback, but U misunderstood my issue. The existing siding is ceder Board and Batten (not T1-11) that is laid over 1/2" (7/16"?) CDX sheeting. To remove the existing CDX sheeting to gain access to the stud cavities would be a massive and very costly undertaking. The new T1-11 siding goes flat on the original sheeting with foam squirted through holes in the sheeting into the concealed stud cavities. But thanks again for your comeback. CRay

Windows on Wash 09-26-2012 03:33 PM


If it were my home, I would do a couple of things.

First, I would not use foam as it is usually more expensive and does not have much in terms of real world advantage over properly installed and dense packed cellulose.

Next, I would incorporate some sort of rigid foam sheathing to the exterior wall and help with the thermal bridging of the framing.

At that point, you would have a really solid and efficient wall design.

Please post any follow up.

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