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Old 09-20-2011, 12:56 AM   #16
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I could see sunlight under the eves in a few spots (soffit vents I'm guessing). There's 2 vents in the attic ceiling also. It was about 65 and sunny here today and the attic was probably about 80.
Make sure that the blown in insulation does not obstruct the soffits.

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Old 09-21-2011, 03:58 PM   #17
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Post a pic of the rim covered by boards. http://www.quadlock.com/technical_li...Insulation.pdf
http://www.professionalroofing.net/a...2/feature2.asp

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Old 09-21-2011, 05:03 PM   #18
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+1

I remember reading where there was only a 2 degree shift in shingle temperature in Las Vegas for that matter (i.e. extremely hot) between a well vented and completely unvented assembly.
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:11 PM   #19
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Lol, location, location, location. I'm working at a 200 unit apt. complex with 38' trusses from '60's with no intake or exhaust venting, no problems.....

These are of interest, I haven't used them yet; http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/en/publicati...CR-1496-05.pdf

http://www.joelstiburek.com/topten/south.htm

http://www.baileyeng.com/paston_effect.htm

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Old 09-22-2011, 05:08 AM   #20
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Lol, location, location, location. I'm working at a 200 unit apt. complex with 38' trusses from '60's with no intake or exhaust venting, no problems.....

These are of interest, I haven't used them yet; http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/en/publicati...CR-1496-05.pdf

http://www.joelstiburek.com/topten/south.htm

http://www.baileyeng.com/paston_effect.htm

Gary
Warm up there...?

It is all part of the Sauna/Steam room feature on the building.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:02 PM   #21
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:45 PM   #22
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It would certainly be easy to fill that area with foam and provide good insulation plus prevent air infiltration. Surly a good place to start, that fiberglass isn't doing much good.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:45 PM   #23
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So just buy about 40 cans of Great Stuff and start filling that area in?
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:48 PM   #24
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So just buy about 40 cans of Great Stuff and start filling that area in?
You could certainly do that but you probably want to do some looking around for some of the larger kits, they provide better foam you would probably be much cheaper in the long run. Those cans don't go very far!
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:52 AM   #25
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You could certainly do that but you probably want to do some looking around for some of the larger kits, they provide better foam you would probably be much cheaper in the long run. Those cans don't go very far!
+1

Buy a larger 2-part kit and get to spraying.

Foam is your friend in this case.
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:04 PM   #26
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Any clue where those are sold? All I saw in Lowes and Walmart was a few hundred regular cans of Great Stuff.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:35 AM   #27
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There's a lot of them sold online. I would do a lot of research first.

I think there's one called tiger spray foam and foam it green. Temperature of the foam is extremely important. It's a bit of an expense so you want to do your homework and proceed carefully.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:03 AM   #28
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Find a local building supply house (sells windows, roofing, etc). They should have what's called a "froth pack". Its a small 2-part foam kit, usually in the neighborhood of a few hundred bucks (maybe $400).
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Old 09-29-2011, 12:56 AM   #29
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Should insulating the rim joists be done all around the whole basement or just the 2 ends where the floor joists end? One end is totally inaccessible due to a bathroom and large storage cabinet. One of the sides would also be difficult to do due to an addition.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:23 AM   #30
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Should insulating the rim joists be done all around the whole basement or just the 2 ends where the floor joists end? One end is totally inaccessible due to a bathroom and large storage cabinet. One of the sides would also be difficult to do due to an addition.
Do it where you can access it.

Ideally, the basement is unfinished and you can get to everything but that is often not the case.

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