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Old 01-19-2012, 10:24 AM   #16
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Help me insulate a balloon framed carriage house...


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Any soffit venting ideas based on the pictures above?
Sounds like your hell-bent on the hardway...spade bit or sawzall are two tools that come to mind...good luck

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Old 01-19-2012, 10:57 AM   #17
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Help me insulate a balloon framed carriage house...


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Sounds like your hell-bent on the hardway...spade bit or sawzall are two tools that come to mind...good luck
I don't know why you think I am "hell-bent" on any specific approach.

Some folks above advised on using foam baffles to vent from the kneewall to the attic. Following that, now I am asking how I get the air though the soffit in the first place, given the construction method which was employed.

I even asked whether the situation at the soffits should lead to sealing the attic.

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Old 01-19-2012, 11:50 AM   #18
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Help me insulate a balloon framed carriage house...


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Originally Posted by wrooster View Post
I don't know why you think I am "hell-bent" on any specific approach.

Some folks above advised on using foam baffles to vent from the kneewall to the attic. Following that, now I am asking how I get the air though the soffit in the first place, given the construction method which was employed.

I even asked whether the situation at the soffits should lead to sealing the attic.

Wrooster
I have been reading along...and I gave you the logical approach from the start. Here are the three parameters that, I believe, make the decision for you:

1) You're planning on replacing the roof
2) You are insulating your space that has limited roof member thickness which will limit the amount of insulatable space
3) You eaves are currently sealed and would take a fair amount of effort to open up

Taking those three factors into consideration, the most logical option is to use what rafter dimension you have and insulate it. leave the eaves alone as they are already sealed well to air and would be a PIA to open up. Replace the roof and add the venting via 2x wood strips and new roof sheathing. Buy opening up the eaves you now will have to create the air channels up the rafter bays effectively reducing your insulation thickness by at least 1-1/2" at an R-value loss of approx. 5. So instead of an (6") R-19, you'll have (4") R-13. Add to that the potential air leakages from those flimsy foam air channels and you could potentially lose even more effective R-value.

By venting at the exterior, you can insulate RIGHT NOW and get on with finishing you space. Roofs don't HAVE to be vented, though there are many arguments on shingle life extension but, in reality, alot of warranties actually allow for hot roofs. When you do replace your roof in a year or two or three, then provide the venting system...
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:08 AM   #19
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Help me insulate a balloon framed carriage house...


This is how I would do it as well.

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