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digitalplumber 10-03-2012 08:30 PM

faced insulation in wall where to staple
do you staple inside the studs or on the outer edge overlapping?

Missouri Bound 10-03-2012 10:27 PM

Well....if you staple inside the studs the drywall fits a tad better, but you lose the vapor barrier. It's how I was taught to do it. Most installers I have seen staple on the studs. On the studs also looks neater. I'm sure you have opened up a discussion topic. Flip a coin.:laughing:

Gary in WA 10-03-2012 11:47 PM

Drywall guidelines/warranty require bare studs for application of board, pp.4, #4.2.1:

Pressure fit is best, vapor retarder is area weighed (surface measured), tabs not required;

If you inset staple; the insulation will take a R-value loss, pp. 2, fig.3a,3b;

P.S. Air seal the cavities at sheathing/framing joints, framing/floor joints and all wiring/plumbing holes first.

Windows on Wash 10-04-2012 06:45 AM

In Houston, any vapor barrier placement would be on the exterior (warm) wall not the interior (cold) wall.

+1 to air sealing the wall (both interior and exterior).

What is the exterior of the home (siding, brick, etc)?

digitalplumber 10-04-2012 08:25 AM

This is a very small bathroom, no bigger than 7 x 8. There are only 2 exterior walls that need insulation. No insulation in walls prior to demo. This is an older 60's home: 1 wall has the older fiber blackboard with brick exterior over it and the other has black roof paper and cedar boards.

The second exterior wall with roof paper and cedar, will be replaced soon with: hardie/Tyvek/OSB. The room side of this wall composes: one side of this wall is one side of the standup only shower which will be done in Tile/schuster shower system/hardibacker 1/2 inch nailed directly to the studs. The rest of this same wall will be the sink/cabinet and mirror.

Yes I will be caulking around the floor studs wall frame.

So am I understanding you guys that I dont need the krafed insulation?

digitalplumber 10-04-2012 08:57 AM

ok I just read this and it looks like un-krafted.

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