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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 24
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"exposed" kraft faced insulation fire hazard
HVAC guys are running a vertical duct (supply and return) from my basement to my 2nd floor attic. It will run right along an exterior wall and be enclosed in a drywalled-in vertical soffit. My question is how do I insulate the exterior wall cavity (behind the duct)? Would the metal ducts touching the kraft faced insulation be enough for fire protection (in lieu of drywall)?
The only other thing I can think of is to use unfaced insulation and put up some 6 mil poly as a vapor barrier (instead of the kraft facing). Last edited by DIY1; 03-10-2013 at 11:46 AM. |
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#2 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 24
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"exposed" kraft faced insulation fire hazard
I ended up putting drywall behind the ducts because I didn't want to take any chances with the inspector. But while I was researching I came across some very conflicting info on adding 6 mil poly over top of kraft faced insulation: Some were adamant not to, and some were adamant that you're supposed to. Some were against kraft facing in general. What's the final verdict? I trust buildingscience.com but I can't really find their opinion on it.
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 18,830
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"exposed" kraft faced insulation fire hazard
Go back and add your location to your profile, yes it makes a differance.
Just go to quick links to edit. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pacific North west
Posts: 821
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"exposed" kraft faced insulation fire hazard
Unless your running a blast furnace then their is zero chance of a fire. from HVAC Duct work. think about it? Homes would be exploding in balls of fire every day if that was the case. second you don't put a vapor barirrior over a vapor retarder. third thing ask the inspector what to do. they can offer advice.
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#5 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,851
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"exposed" kraft faced insulation fire hazard
" Some were against kraft facing in general. What's the final verdict? I trust buildingscience.com but I can't really find their opinion on it."----------- depends on location, as Joe said. If in Zone 1-4, no vapor retarder/barrier, except 4 coastal; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...commendations/
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...nd-wall-design IMO, use some PIC (foil-faced iso foamboard) behind the warm supply ducting, has a high heat factor of 200*F or something, google it. Ask local AHJ. I agree with Nailbags, no poly over kraft faced. Gary
__________________
Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets. They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money. Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually! |
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