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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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Crawlspace
You may have also seen some posts on the topic in other threads "Insulation 'Great Stuff' by DOW Chem'" & "Crawlspace/Foam Insulation DIY" so in continuing to try and research as much as possible to do the right thing & use the right product, etc.. I was back down in the crawlspace doing more recon work only find some more interesting things. I understand now why some of the area above the crawl space are so drafty and very cold because the rim joists are not properly sealed and insulated
In the front of my home around the bow window there is a 2ft overhang. Same goes for the back of my home. After removing the pieces of faced insulation lightly stuffed in there I could feel the air just gushing in. More evidence of this was the black on the insulation. So now my question is what would be the best way to fill these rim joists and sill ledge? They are approx 24" deep, 8" high, and 14" - 15" wide (see pic's). I have something in mind but wanted to get some forum feedback as to the best way to seal this off and insulate it so it makes the room above more comfortable. I would like to do this over this winter. Additional info: Shooting the area in question with a thermal temperature gun show temps 47.5. 53 degree's on the bottom of the above floor in that area (throws a monkey wrench into spray foaming it). Also the cinder-block foundation all around the front of the house (faces dead north) was similar in temperature. Hasn't been that cold in our area yet at all. Thanks to all in advance....
Last edited by cbaur88; 12-06-2011 at 12:16 PM. |
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#2 |
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Exterior Construction
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: VA, MD, DC
Posts: 3,855
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Crawlspace
Spraying it will be easiest.
Caulk the exterior box (from inside and seal up all the leaks). Get it air tight. You can spray it if you want or once it is air tight, you can just as easily fill it with Roxul, FG, or cellulose. Cut in some rigid blockers and be done with it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Windows on Wash For This Useful Post: | cbaur88 (12-06-2011) |
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#3 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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CrawlspaceQuote:
Thanks Windows, I planned on doing exactly what you recommended by caulking and sealing it up airtight then cutting to fit some rigid blocker and back filling w/ Roxul. Thanks again for the advice!! |
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#4 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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CrawlspaceQuote:
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#5 |
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Exterior Construction
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: VA, MD, DC
Posts: 3,855
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Crawlspace
Should be fine. What is the floor above?
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#6 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,843
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Crawlspace
To be really safe from condensation; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...n-crawlspaces/
Pull the soffit board, flash the perimeter to cover new soffit and 1-1/2” foam board. . Darn radiation, a more varied explanation; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...bout-diffusion You have to “break” the thermal bridges. Your plywood soffit has an R-1.25 plus the 2x6 = 8.13 R-value, but worse yet is they are acting as thermal “heat sinks” tied to the outside air. Foam board on the bottoms is the only way…… then insulate in the cavities as WW correctly stated. Gary
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Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets. They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money. Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually! |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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Crawlspace
Floor above looks like plank flooring (see attached pic's) with carpet on top.
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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CrawlspaceQuote:
I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing and using the right products. As of now I have no issues with my crawlspace and moisture. If fact I am impressed at how clean and in good shape all the wood and flooring is in. However it's very cold the living space above it and I can see why. The last thing I want to do it try fix one problem and create another problem. As of now my plan is tackle all the rim joists 1st and seal them up. I want to use the rigid foam (DOW S.Tuff R) cut it to fit the rim joist (see attached pic) and seal it with Great stuff. I then want to back fill the cavity with Roxul. Once these are sealed up insulated I am thinking of just using faced fiberglass batt's between the joists seal up any holes around venting or duct-work with fire great stuff. If any of this sounds like a disaster please yell out. My plan changes everyday it seems as I learn more. Like I said I just don't want to fix a problem and then create another problem, thanks for all you help
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#9 | ||
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Exterior Construction
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: VA, MD, DC
Posts: 3,855
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CrawlspaceQuote:
Quote:
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#10 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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CrawlspaceQuote:
I am not crazy about fiberglass either I am just dreading cutting to fit rigid foam for the entire crawl space, it's a daunting task so I am trying to take an easy way out. I may go Rolux the entire route, looks easy to work with, easy to cut, and more forgiving when compressed. Thanks again! |
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#11 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,843
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Crawlspace
Roxul is fine, inboard of the rigid foamboard – canned foam sealed to stop the air, fig.#2: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ce-insulation/
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...-at-rim-joist/ Check locally on the ignition barrier requirement also; http://dow-styrofoam.custhelp.com/ap...KkNueDl5R2s%3D Gary
__________________
Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets. They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money. Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually! |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Gary in WA For This Useful Post: | cbaur88 (12-13-2011) |
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#12 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 148
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CrawlspaceQuote:
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