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cbaur88 01-03-2012 01:02 PM

Crawl Space Project Cont....
 
1 Attachment(s)
So I am about halfway through my crawl space renovation-project and getting close to the final step of the vapor barrier. But just before that I wanted to address my duct work situation. As you can see from the picture I have a main supply line wrapped with fiberglass. I would like to rid of all fiberglass as I've grown to dislike it. Anyways since this is a converted to closed crawl space should I put back some type of insulation on the duct work? Would I gain anything from adding some insulation to the duct or just leave it be?

I've also read that some of the leaks in the duct work can help make it a semi-conditioned crawl as hot or cool air will leak out from the not 100% leak proof duct work giving some minimal conditioning. I got the idea from this article.

http://www.dirt-crawl-spaces.com/cra...ditioning.html

Windows on Wash 01-03-2012 06:08 PM

No need to wrap the duct work in a conditioned crawl.

You should seal the seam and control ventilation via a metered register rather than relying on accumulated leakage to condition the crawl.

Always better to be able to meter the air and than just via leakage.

Looking good so far. :thumbsup:

cbaur88 01-04-2012 08:55 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 811473)
No need to wrap the duct work in a conditioned crawl.

You should seal the seam and control ventilation via a metered register rather than relying on accumulated leakage to condition the crawl.

Always better to be able to meter the air and than just via leakage.

Looking good so far. :thumbsup:

Thanks again WW for you help and input. I agree and really wanted to add a register or two off the main supply to the crawl space but over in HVAC I am being told I need to add a return vent in the crawl space in order to do that. That is something out of my league and something I can't afford to hire someone to do the work as my return is far away and would need some bit of work it appears to accomplish.

Attached are some quick snap shots of the updated project. Thanks again much for your help!

P.S. The humidity level is pretty high down there now 65 - 70% but I do not have a proper vapor barrier in place. I am hoping that once I get that installed securely and tightly that will reduce down to around 50% or less if not I'll be adding a dehumidifier I suppose.

Windows on Wash 01-04-2012 09:09 AM

You will be fine with just a bit of supply side air. You are basically pushing that in there now with all the duct leakage and there is plenty of air moving up to the first floor.

Seal all the seams in the ductwork and open up one supply register and see how that goes. If you sealed up everything so tightly that the air can't get out, you can re-examine the return vent then. The reality is that the crawl/home connection is probably not as tight as you think and air pushed into the crawl will make it through to the home.

This is why it is imperative to get the floor completely sealed up tight like a drum.

cbaur88 01-04-2012 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 812049)
You will be fine with just a bit of supply side air. You are basically pushing that in there now with all the duct leakage and there is plenty of air moving up to the first floor.

Seal all the seams in the ductwork and open up one supply register and see how that goes. If you sealed up everything so tightly that the air can't get out, you can re-examine the return vent then. The reality is that the crawl/home connection is probably not as tight as you think and air pushed into the crawl will make it through to the home.

This is why it is imperative to get the floor completely sealed up tight like a drum.

Makes allot sense WW, thank you again. I am monitoring my crawl with wireless temp/humidity gauge. Once I am finished with the project and I've got the vapor barrier down I will monitor humidity levels/temps to see if I should add more conditioned air or needing a dehumidifier.

Gary in WA 01-04-2012 01:21 PM

Fig.2: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ce-insulation/

Rims are at R-2; http://www.quadlock.com/technical_li...Insulation.pdf

Gary

cbaur88 01-04-2012 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 812273)

Good stuff Gary, thanks. I've got the rim's all sealed up best I could :thumbsup:

CrawlSpaceMoist 01-07-2012 01:44 PM

What a great job, and thanks for posting this info! If you enjoy it you could start your own company, but you'll have to pick the pace up a bit! :)
Also, I thought returns in sealed crawls weren't allowed? Maybe I misunderstood, but you mentioned that's what was being said over in the HVAC area...
Good luck, keep us updated. 65%-70% humidity is high, but I'm curious how much it would drop if:
1. you just added the poly to the floor
then:
2. added the supply air.

The last sealed crawl I saw with no conditioning (thursday) was about 58%. he had a dehumidifier, just hadn't had electric run into the crawl yet.
JP

cbaur88 01-09-2012 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawlSpaceMoist (Post 815432)
What a great job, and thanks for posting this info! If you enjoy it you could start your own company, but you'll have to pick the pace up a bit! :)
Also, I thought returns in sealed crawls weren't allowed? Maybe I misunderstood, but you mentioned that's what was being said over in the HVAC area...
Good luck, keep us updated. 65%-70% humidity is high, but I'm curious how much it would drop if:
1. you just added the poly to the floor
then:
2. added the supply air.

The last sealed crawl I saw with no conditioning (thursday) was about 58%. he had a dehumidifier, just hadn't had electric run into the crawl yet.
JP

Thanks CSM, sometimes I feel like I could do it for a living after all I've learned from the fine folks on this forum and the information I've read on the internet. But I know there's much more to be learned.

Yeah I am not sure about the return in the crawl. That's what the HVAC was telling me at least this one particular gentleman was telling me. I am not sure if that's allowed or not.

Just yesterday I removed the fiberglass wrapped around all my duct work. I already see a difference in temperature of the overall crawl space and a lower humidity as well but not much. So it appears some of the leakage must be getting out into the crawl conditioning it a little. I'll see if this leakage and the vapor barrier make a dent in the humidity level. I hope it does as I'd hate to incur the cost of a dehumidifier. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.

metal 01-11-2012 05:55 PM

Wow looks like quite the project. I get far too closterphobic in areas like that. Props to you!!

ndmick 01-25-2012 07:58 PM

I`ve been doing alot of reading here for weeks.When the vapor barrier is put down does it go up the insulation and about how far?I`ve got alot of projects coming fast,Pex water lines,insulating conditioned crawl space,new bath,new kitchen.I`m planning on doing it mostly by myself.I live in south carolina.

cbaur88 01-26-2012 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndmick (Post 834787)
I`ve been doing alot of reading here for weeks.When the vapor barrier is put down does it go up the insulation and about how far?I`ve got alot of projects coming fast,Pex water lines,insulating conditioned crawl space,new bath,new kitchen.I`m planning on doing it mostly by myself.I live in south carolina.

ndmick, from all my reading, research, and talking to folks on this forum the vapor barrier should be run up the foundation wall approx a few inches from the top so inspections can be done if need be down the line. When I insulated my foundation wall with rigid foam board I left 3" - "4 inches to the top of the sil plate to give me room to add foundation tape and foundation pins to secure the vapor barrier. Hope that helps and good luck!

ndmick 01-26-2012 03:59 PM

Thanks ,I was just not sure if the barrier goes under the insulation or over top the rigid foam board?

cbaur88 01-26-2012 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndmick (Post 835386)
Thanks ,I was just not sure if the barrier goes under the insulation or over top the rigid foam board?

From what I've read and been recommended it goes over top. Good luck :thumbsup:


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