Cellulose Insulation Blowing In Walls

nhoj

My home was built in Ohio in 1973 and I am putting Cellulose Insulation in my ceiling or attic of my home and would like to know if one can put or blow in Cellulose Insulation in the outer walls also.

The house has the insulation in the walls but a poor job of it. It has black insulation board on the outside walls with sideling over it. Will this cause trouble or will you be able to blow it into the walls by taking off the sideling in places and putting it back on.

Will this make the house too tight?

I have heard the fiberglass insulation will loose it's R value the colder it gets. And will not hold the heat out when it gets to hot.


I have put New Windows in my home four years ago.

I think that foam would be to expensive and would cause big health problem by making the house way to tight.

Need your feed back.

Windows on Wash

What kind of siding does the home have? If you have wood, I would be hesitant. If it is something like vinyl or aluminum, there is not as much risk there.

Are you planning on replacing the siding anytime soon? If so, that would be the time to address the insulation questions.

What is the wall construction and where specifically in Ohio do you live?

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nhoj

[quote=Windows on Wash;1070106]What kind of siding does the home have? If you have wood, I would be hesitant. If it is something like vinyl or aluminum, there is not as much risk there.

Are you planning on replacing the siding anytime soon? If so, that would be the time to address the insulation questions.

What is the wall construction and where specifically in Ohio do you live?[/quote


I live near Toledo.

I have Vinyl sideing.

merle

I would be very careful in blowing cellulose insulation into my walls. You could pop the nails in the drywall
I would leave this to the pros. That what they get the big bucks for.

nhoj

[quote=merle;1070477]I would be very careful in blowing cellulose insulation into my walls. You could pop the nails in the drywall
I would leave this to the pros. That what they get the big bucks for.[/quot


I agree 100 Per Cent with you.

gregzoll

The foam that they put into the walls with existing fiberglass, fills the voids and makes it aound tight, and can make it more air tight to make more efficient.

A reputable company will do a blower door test before and after the install. A good one will pull in every rebate available to you, which will lower your end bill.

What I would do for now, use DAp foam in the can around outlet boxes on outside walls, along with any gaps around the window and door framing. Insulate with R-15 or R-13 around rim and sill joist bays in basement or crawl. Also insulating the underneath of the floor can help to make it not radiate coolness.

Also sealing around the attic hatch, damper for bath exhaust fan, better dryer damper that looks like a mushroom. Also better sealing gaskets around entry doors, and if windows leak when closed, use 3m window film.

That should get you by this winter, but the other will help in the long run.

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Gary in WA

Not to worry if using a rental cellulose blower in the walls (3.5-4#), they just don't have the pressure required (unlike an attic at 1.5#). Which means; DIY in the attic, not for walls-hire it out; http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publication...-smart-choice/

http://www.karg.com/pdf/Insulaton_de...and_Biddle.pdf

Gary

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