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awdblazer 01-30-2013 09:16 AM

blown in attic insulation
i am going to either get someone in to do this or do it myself
i have had a couple quotes and everyone asks about bathroom/kitchen exhaust fans and a chimney for the furnace/water heater
now my question with that what is everyone using as a baffle?
i am going to be using the wax coated cardboard insulation stops as baffles on the rafters, atticat fibreglass blown in insulation
what should i use on the back of my attic hatch?

HomeSealed 01-30-2013 01:23 PM

Its difficult to decipher some of your verbiage, but for the attic hatch you are going to want to build a box around it to contain the new blown in insulation. Then add insulation to the back side of it as well as weatherstipping and latches/locks for a tight seal.
I'd recommend considering cellulose over the atticat as well. There are studies from both sides in blown fg vs cellulose, but I prefer the cellulose for slightly better r value and it should be cheaper.... I guess if you have exisiting loose fill fg that you are going over, atticat would be the choice.

awdblazer 01-30-2013 05:11 PM

i was told you cannot blow insulation right up and over top of the fans and the chimney flue thats why i am asking if i need to build some sort of damn/barrier around them and what to use

Gary in WA 01-31-2013 09:45 PM


HomeSealed 01-31-2013 10:34 PM

Ask and you shall receive!
Gary's link provides answers for both your chimney and IC/ non-IC rated fixtures... I will add, that depending on your location. and the federal, state, or municipal funds that are available to you, replacement of non IC rated fixtures (can lights, etc) can actually be cheaper than the steps necessary to protect them with proper insulation and sealing measures. For instance, here in WI, while there are pre-cast housing units ( they look like upside down flower pots) available to install over non-IC units, our statewide program requires a "box" custom cut and constructed from cement board... We can install a better light fixture for less than the labor and material that goes into that "box".

awdblazer 02-01-2013 06:07 AM

thanks gary that works perfectly
so far i have gotten 2 quotes and they are about 3 times of what i can do it for

HomeSealed 02-01-2013 09:04 AM


Originally Posted by awdblazer (Post 1106968)
thanks gary that works perfectly
so far i have gotten 2 quotes and they are about 3 times of what i can do it for

If you are willing, capable, and educated on the subject this can be a great project for DIY.:)
I would caution you however from thinking that the quotes you got were exorbitant just because you can do it yourself for far less. There is a pretty substantial cost of doing business in this industry, and if you were to compare it to growing your own food or making your own clothing where the markup might be 30x's or 300x's what you could do it for, it would put that in perspective. Most companies are out there simply "surviving" these days...
I'll get off my soapbox now.:whistling2:

In addition to the link(s) that Gary provided, there is a plethora of info out there on how to air seal and insulate properly including videos, etc, and it sounds like you are on the right track.

awdblazer 02-02-2013 07:29 AM

i just dont see how they can charge that much for it, i could do it for like 500 and they are charging 1700 i dont know what gives

HomeSealed 02-02-2013 01:15 PM

I don't want to hijack the thread, so I'll just say this:
1) I can't comment on the specifics of whether or not the pricing is reasonable, but professionally blown in insulation ranges anywhere from just under $1 per sq ft, up to $1.50+ depending on all kinds of variables. Air sealing is typically a minimum of a few hundred, and then all of the baffles, boxes, hatch sealing etc are extra as well.
2) the average cost to procure a job/project in in the home improvement industry is over $400. That is just the advertising, etc, not including paying of a salesperson or anything like that.
3) the overhead for an average small- medium home improvement company with a location is between $10-20k per month.
4) if you can get the product for $500, a business will pay a similar cost, now add another $500 for labor and a sensible markup for overhead and profit, and there is your $1700....
... Or maybe this guy is just price gouging:laughing: ..... Only way to know is to get a few quotes and compare. If they are all around the same price, you know that he is not out of line.

awdblazer 02-02-2013 02:34 PM

i have had another quote from a well known company for 1100

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