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Old 10-07-2013, 04:00 PM   #1
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basement wall with heating duct


Just a quick check on this.

I recently had my basement internally waterproofed, and a new slab. So I have the dimple board running all on my walls embedded into the floors at the footings, as usual.

My plan after doing a lot of reading (loads of great info here) use 2" foam boards on the exterior walls sealed for insulation. (calked, taped, spray foam at edges etc) I read it's good to use x pattern glue on the boards on the wall, is there tips for putting these boards on when you have waterproofing membrane on your exterior walls internally? My basement waterproofer said just glue the boards as normal to the wall over the membrane. The membrane kind of comes forward a few inches at the floor so my foam board will need to come forward a bit near the bottom. Any concerns here?

Second, I'll be tapcon-ing 1x3s every 3 or 4 feet vertically as strapping for the hvac guys, they are re-running my heating duct sideways all the the wall to get it off the ceiling since my ceiling height is only 7', to gain more space (currently the bulkhead is about 30+ inches wide, it's not a big basement...) and I planned on framing in front of the sideways duct (probably about 8" deep from the wall) and just putting drywall, no vapour barrier as my foam board will be well sealed. The heating duct will be insulated with foil backed mineral wool insulation.

Any concerns with having this heating/cooling duct between the foam board and the frame wall/drywall? The guys here say no, just want to check the experts here.

thx so much in advance.

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Old 10-08-2013, 03:24 PM   #2
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basement wall with heating duct


Hi, just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this, even though the waterproofer said just glue the rigid to the walls/dimple board, there doesn't seem to be any information on this anywhere. I assume this is ok, and I can still seal it up as a vapour barrier as usual.

The dimple membrane runs from just above grade down the wall and since the slab now sits just in front of the first brick of the footings, (brick foundation, footing is 3 bricks high) the dimple membrane come forward a couple inches and down the footing to the new weeping tiles at the perimeter under the slab.

I did see some info where people don't use dimple membrane just rigid, but I don't see how in this case that would work.

TIA.

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Old 10-08-2013, 04:36 PM   #3
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basement wall with heating duct


Use enough adhesive to hold it there. If it were a concrete wall, I suggest glue in a 1' square grid pattern to limit air infiltration to the concrete. As you have the membrane, just keep it on the wall as that is the vapor/air barrier, the foam just the thermal barrier. Though it will help air seal as second-line of defense. Wall thickness changes are sometimes unavoidable, important; no gaps at fb/insulation to let basement air into free air space for possible convective looping; pp.4, middle column; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...fHFsk1RrK9G2HQ

The cavity/dead air space requires fire-stopping every 10' horizontally per minimum safety code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par017.htm hit "next section" a few times to see materials accepted.

XPS to 160-170*F. Slide some foil-faced polyiso in behind= to +200*.

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Old 10-08-2013, 05:02 PM   #4
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ah thanks. I didn't think about firestopping since I will have a cavity probably about 10" or so with the heating main supply duct running vertically between the foam board and the stud/drywall. I'm guessing what I'm doing here isn't done much, which was why I was somewhat nervous about it. I've heard of putting the supply duct sideways all the wall like this a number of time, just so little info.

thx for the links
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:14 PM   #5
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basement wall with heating duct


I was just reading that bit on the convective loop you linked to, I'm a little confused by this. Because we're attaching the heating duct to the 1x3s tapconed on the installed foam board then framing in front with drywall, am I creating a real problem here? Should I reconsider and frame in front of the foamboard attach the hearing duct on front of that instead? I'd lose maybe 6" or so, but better that than problems.



I had considered putting roxul r13 into the stud wall in front, but all I've read about batt insulation I wondered if it was worth the danger of moisture/mold problems.

Thanks for all your help. I'm in Toronto if that makes any difference zone wise.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:54 PM   #6
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The Roxul can handle moisture better than f.g, it doesn't lose R-value when wet.
The ducting should be fine if you have required thickness f.b. on concrete to prevent condensation. 1" insulation at R-3.6 will give an 80% reduction in heat loss; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja

PIC will stop moisture, give R-5.6-6.8 R-value. Pictures?

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Old 10-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #7
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started today. Putting 2" dow insulation SM boards up, strapping every 4' for the hvac guy.

Good on the roxul, strongly considering using r13 in the 2x4 wall right in front of the heating duct. Will give r23 I guess total. Will seal up the foamboard as recommended as a vapour barrier.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:01 AM   #8
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Great! Don't forget strips of fb (1") under the bottom plate with a continuous bead of caulking at floor/fb joint for surface irregularities and a thermal/air/capillary break to the concrete/earth. ADA the drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/

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Old 10-11-2013, 06:53 PM   #9
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thx Gary for the help. I will do that.

It's bee a wee bit challenging getitng the foambard on with that membrane back there and how it comes out about 3 or so inches as the bottom for it to slide over the footing. Tapconning the 3' 1x3s on after kind of bends the boards in some from the bottom, but I've spared no expense on glue (discovered it's cheaper some to have the big calking gun because the bigger tubes give you a break on $$) the foam boards are surprisingly easy to cut with a big olfa blade.

Doing a basement wall clear of any membrane would be a snap. This is great stuff.

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