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Old 06-16-2013, 09:01 PM   #16
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Basement insulation options


"tuck taping each joint and putting 1" f.b. under the p.t. bottom plate with the grid pattern too."-------------- just run a straight bead of caulking under/over the foamboard there, just to air seal any irregularities in the concrete floor/plate.

"The gap in the framing would be in the front of the insulation right behind the drywall...is that okay?"---------- no gap if you can help it. Better to gap the back rather than the front, prefer no gaps, just pull some f.g. apart length-wise to make the filler, or compress it slightly. Yes, your total R-value decreases BUT the R-value per inch increases. And you already have code-required R-13 without the f.b. or the (extra) filler insulation. Air seal the wiring/plumbing holes w. canned foam, all outlet holes, under the bottom plate, even between the top plates- if using two, w. some caulking. 1. prevents room air from getting to your second line of defense (foamboard); 2. prevents attic from drawing basement air to feed supply there, taking conditioned air with it (past your basement walls, through the main floor walls). ADA drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/
Regular paper faced drywall is fine, IMO, latex paint only (wall materials to f.b., as permeable as possible).

Gary

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Old 06-16-2013, 09:27 PM   #17
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Just checking if I understand correctly. Your are saying to put the 1" XPS down then put the treated bottom plate on top of that? The XPS won't be crushed when you secure the bottom plate with nails?
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:58 AM   #18
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XPS has enough compressive strength to build off of.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in WA View Post
"tuck taping each joint and putting 1" f.b. under the p.t. bottom plate with the grid pattern too."-------------- just run a straight bead of caulking under/over the foamboard there, just to air seal any irregularities in the concrete floor/plate.
If I use the OC .75" f.b. then I'll seal the lip on the T&G as well as on the line down between the two as well as tuck tape over that (can never be too careful). If I get the f.b. from lowes than I'll definitely use a bead of caulk between the seam along with tuck tape. As for the base and top of each piece of foamboard, I'll be using spray foam from a can to make sure I get a good seal prior to framing as well as in the corners where two pieces of foamboard meet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in WA View Post
"The gap in the framing would be in the front of the insulation right behind the drywall...is that okay?"---------- no gap if you can help it. Better to gap the back rather than the front, prefer no gaps, just pull some f.g. apart length-wise to make the filler, or compress it slightly. Yes, your total R-value decreases BUT the R-value per inch increases. And you already have code-required R-13 without the f.b. or the (extra) filler insulation. Air seal the wiring/plumbing holes w. canned foam, all outlet holes, under the bottom plate, even between the top plates- if using two, w. some caulking. 1. prevents room air from getting to your second line of defense (foamboard); 2. prevents attic from drawing basement air to feed supply there, taking conditioned air with it (past your basement walls, through the main floor walls). ADA drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/
Regular paper faced drywall is fine, IMO, latex paint only (wall materials to f.b., as permeable as possible).

Gary
While reading your link, I found this PDF and I was wondering why BuildingScience recommends a minimum of 1" XPS over .5" like you?

I will fill the .5" gap behind the Roxul with foamboard and seal all edges and do the grid pattern on that back of that as well.

Thank you for the ADA link, I never knew about sealing behind drywall but it makes sense after reading that and I will make sure that is done. As for the drywall...regular paper drywall with latex paint will be the one I choose

Gary, I want to thank you very much for all your help and patience with me.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:26 PM   #20
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The 1" gives safety to 40%RH, the 1/2" to only 35%RH with using a dehumidifier, as I stated in post #10. BSC didn't give the specific Zone 4 as I figured, just a (safe) minimum thickness. Be sure to use 1" (R-5) XPS under the bottom plate (as a sill sealer is R-1 or less), not enough to be a thermal break; stopping the walls from becoming "heat sinks" to the cold earth at the perimeter. Use unfaced (no poly/foil) rigid, unless you are absolutely certain to air seal the board against condensation (any pin-hole will compromise it). Check locally, some jurisdictions require fire-blocking the rigid board every 10' horizontally as well, others- just the framing, per code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par017.htm

Gary
PS. only the rigid on the concrete requires the grid pattern.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:46 PM   #21
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Gary, is there a reason you don't recommend closed-cell (three inches as it gives a minimum of 0.8 perm)?
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:06 PM   #22
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ccSPF is the best way to go, though some DIY'ers may have trouble with it. Tank temps are finicky, spray in lifts, etc., thicker at above-grade and 3' below-grade, less below that as soil temps warm from the earth; ocSPF requires more volume (to equal ccSPF) to keep wall cavity dew-point lower-a lot thicker in colder climates; http://www.sprayfoam.com/newsarchive...ils.cfm?id=123

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...study-analysis

Tommy, I started you a new thread rather than piggy-back here.

Gary
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:43 AM   #23
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ccSPF is not as often discussed on here either given the non DIY applicability and the $$$$ associated with it.

I also have concerns with long term off gassing but they jury is out on that .
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in WA View Post
ccSPF is the bestway to go, though some DIY'ers may have trouble with it. Tank temps are finicky, spray in lifts, etc., thicker at above-grade and 3' below-grade, less below that as soil temps warm from the earth; ocSPF requires more volume (to equal ccSPF) to keep wall cavity dew-point lower-a lot thicker in colder climates; http://www.sprayfoam.com/newsarchive...ils.cfm?id=123

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...study-analysis

Gary
Awesome...I want to use the best products available today. There is also an insulation method called Flash-and-Batt (http://www.specialty-products.com/pd...ilding0311.pdf) which is very tempting to help with cost but doesn't seem like it would be very efficient compared to all ccSPF. To meet the minimum insulation value of R-13, it would require at least 2" of ccSPF. Do you think just SPF without any batt insulation (Roxul to be exact) would be the best method.

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ccSPF is not as often discussed on here either given the non DIY applicability and the $$$$ associated with it.

I also have concerns with long term off gassing but they jury is out on that .
Cost is similar for my project between FB/Roxul & ccSPF (rough $1800 for all the FB/Roxul compared to $2000 for all ccSPF).

What concerns do you have exactly?
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:55 AM   #25
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Off gassing over the long term.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:25 PM   #26
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System comparisons; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...study-analysis

Gary
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:11 PM   #27
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Hey guys,


I'm back...this time about the floor. I want to insulate the flooring before laying down vinyl planks and carpet (only in the home theater) but I keep seeing 2-3 different options.

My current plan is to use 1" XPS glued to the floor with a 12" grid pattern, spray foam the edges and tape the seams followed my 1/2" plywood tapcon to the floor. My question is would this provide enough moisture barrier between the carpet and/or vinyl planks?
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:23 PM   #28
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Hey guys,


I'm back...this time about the floor. I want to insulate the flooring before laying down vinyl planks and carpet (only in the home theater) but I keep seeing 2-3 different options.

My current plan is to use 1" XPS glued to the floor with a 12" grid pattern, spray foam the edges and tape the seams followed my 1/2" plywood tapcon to the floor. My question is would this provide enough moisture barrier between the carpet and/or vinyl planks?
We do not live that far apart. I used Delta-FL and T&G plywood before I put down carpet. If you are using a floating floor system, that can go right on top of the Delta-FL.

Last edited by tommyxv; 08-25-2013 at 12:10 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyxv

We do not live that far apart. I used Delta-FL and T&G plywood before I put down carpet. If you are using a floating floor system, that can do it right on top of the Delta-FL.
is your floor cold under your feet?

Whereabouts are you?
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:09 AM   #30
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I'm in Newark DE. I'm about 15 mins from the DE/MD border. My floor has been room temp.

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