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Old 04-05-2014, 06:48 PM   #1
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1960s house in Atlanta


Hi All,

Just bought older house in Atlanta ...typical construction for the area with stud walls, brick veneer first floor, and a basement.

Have three insulation scenarios to deal with:

1. Just finished removing paneling used as wainscot in several rooms, most with two exterior walls ...also removed the very minimal 1" fiberglas with aluminized backing which was facing the interior of the house. The bottom 3 feet of each stud bay is open - the exterior sheathing is 3/4"asphalt impregnated with brick on the first floor and wood clapboard on the second ...the asphalt sheathing is pretty smooth with few nails protruding.

I was considering how to force R-13 batting up into the voids between the studs.. Has anyone developed a special tool for this purpose? I figured if I could get the top of each batt all the way up inside the stud bay, the friction might be enough to hold it there? Ideas?

2. Several rooms were fully paneled - all removed, now. R-13, faced or unfaced? Vapor barrier isn't usually recommended, right?

3. Sunroom (20' x 12' with 8 windows) that connects to family room - we're gonna open the two up, but both will end up sharing the hvac outlet designed originally for only the family room - will add ceiling fans to both rooms and there will be 16' opening for 20' width so should share well ...Not the ideal solution, but other than adding a small through the wall heat pump, we're stuck for now. 13. May be able to enlarge hvac duct or add booster fan. Is there anything else I can do, here? Maybe vapor barrier for wind, or use exterior house wrap on the jnside for air infiltration. Certainly foam or caulk cracks, etc.

Thanks for your inputs!

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Old 04-08-2014, 08:10 PM   #2
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Did I say something wrong? :-)

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Old 04-08-2014, 08:48 PM   #3
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1960s house in Atlanta


1. You are going to be able to get that fiberglass that in there very effectively. Plan on trying to send back that area with cellulose or fiberglass. As long as the asphalt sheeting the exterior is in good shape and you keep the moisture out of the brick there shouldn't be much drawing that should be happening to the inside with the exception of some solar vapor drive.

2. I think I answered that in post number one.

3. Not much to do there except look at a PT AC or circulate the air as you said.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:00 PM   #4
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Hi WoW,

Thanks ...it doesn't look like you posted earlier ...nothing in between my initial post and this post from you.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:36 PM   #5
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I'm voice dictating on my cell phone and I meant to say in bullet point number one
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:17 PM   #6
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Came across as a "second language" answer.... the FG won''t be in direct contact with the drywall- as WoW eluded to, I think... and it needs to fill all voids without rounded corners or air pockets; pp.45-47; http://www.buildingscienceconsulting...Measure_Up.pdf

OTOH, there was a video a few years back where they installed FG batts using some rigid plastic panels to shove them up the cavity from exterior...

No vapor barrier or retarder for your location required; http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCode...?state=Georgia

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...commendations/

Gary

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