Working With 1/4" Dry Wall - Drywall & Plaster - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Drywall & Plaster


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-27-2013, 06:48 PM   #1
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10

Working with 1/4" dry wall

I have a 1942 Sears kit home and all of the remaining original walls are plywood. As I have done remodeling I have removed the ply and replaces it with dry wall.
I am now working on a small hallway that is 3' wide 8.5' long and 8' tall- with (believe it or not) 6 doorways in it. My main project in the area is to replace all the door trim since the existing has 70+ years of paint fouling it. While I have the trim off- door and floor, it occurred to me that it may make sense to pull off the plywood and replace it. If I use 1/4" drywall I won't need to replace all 6 of the door frames- 1/2" will leave the wall proud of the existing frames.
My concern is that I've read that 1/4" drywall is really only for covering damaged paneling or drywall. On the other hand the space I am in so broken up with doors that I don't know if there is space for the drywall to sag. The north wall (3')has a door and only 14" of wallspace. The south wall (3') has a door and 6" total wallspace. The east wall (8.5') has 3 doors and 24" wallspace. And finally the west wall (8.5') has one door and 5.5' of running wallspace.
Sorry this is so long and so many measurements but I'm really torn on what to do- thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Working with 1/4" dry wall-img_0783.jpg   Working with 1/4" dry wall-img_0786.jpg  


lokisince89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 06:35 PM   #2
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: outside ocala fl
Posts: 5,505
Rewards Points: 6,034

My first reaction is to say no because 1/4" has no strength and if someone hits or bumps it you have a hole. But since this is a small area you may get away with it if you add quite a bit of cross bracing- horizontal-between the studs.


ToolSeeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 07:04 PM   #3
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 34,590
Rewards Points: 14,312

Why are you removing any of the plywood?
Just go right over it with 1/4 drywall.

If you leave the drywall 2" from the rough open the trim will still work with just a little bit of caulking needed on the outside of the casing, no jamb extention needed.
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 07:16 PM   #4
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,158
Rewards Points: 6,652

Someone sure did a good job in building that house on its side, along with attaching all objects so that they do not move or fall.
gregzoll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 07:25 PM   #5
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 34,590
Rewards Points: 14,312

Must be why they used plywood so the pictures could be screwed to the wall.
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to joecaption For This Useful Post:
gregzoll (02-28-2013)
Old 03-01-2013, 08:55 PM   #6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526

May need to check the fire-rating of the 1/4", needs wood/plywood or other under it for safety. USG says use only in multilayer systems or on solid surfaces; Table 3;

There is a reason it's not in the code:

If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2013, 09:07 PM   #7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nashua, NH, USA
Posts: 7,971
Rewards Points: 1,548

Quarter inch drywall is for building curved walls or substituting for a skim coat of plaster. You would use at least two layers on bare framing.

Even with bracing behind it, one layer of 1/4" drywall is still fragile.
The good conscientious technician or serviceperson will carry extra oils and lubricants in case the new pump did not come with oil or the oil was accidentally spilled, so the service call can be completed without an extra visit.
AllanJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 08:53 AM   #8
automated tool pro
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 165
Rewards Points: 152

1)pull your trim and base leave the crown molding alone.
2)replace the trim around the doorways.
3)hang the quarter inch over the plywood, bumping it into the the door trim and crown molding.
4)finish the sheetrock flat taping next to the trim if necessary.
5)Caulk and paint.

this is the easiest way and the only issue you should have is the base molding where it meets the door trim will be off a 1/4 inch. You'll need extensions for your electric boxes.


drywallfinisher is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Replace masonry wall - feasibility mwpiper Building & Construction 12 01-12-2012 11:36 PM
Adding wall with door opening - sloped ceiling and no joist for top plate Jebross Remodeling 11 01-11-2012 09:34 AM
Trouble with staggered wall rightit Building & Construction 2 03-09-2011 06:23 PM
Building a half wall: 2 questions kbizzle Carpentry 7 02-19-2011 08:22 AM
Atlantic-need your opinion on markd's comments about my vapor barrier? yummy mummy Building & Construction 11 03-07-2007 09:47 AM

Top of Page | View New Posts


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1