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Old 08-08-2010, 03:56 PM   #1
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window box is further out then drywall


Hello all, the previous owner half finished the basement and didn't work too professionally I may add.

As you can see below, parts of the window box protrude further then the drywall in numerous places.. by about 1/4"

so I can't put window trim up easily... as it either won't sit flush to the wall or the window box.

whats the easiest way to correct this?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:14 PM   #2
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window box is further out then drywall


Obviously you will need to remove that---Might be easiest to rip it out and remake the jamb extenders.

If you have an undercutting saw like the Bosch Fine Cut you could saw it flush--At $100 or so might not be practical.

An elevated stepped router base would do the job--with a straight cutting bit.

If you have a router ,,I'll try to talk you through making a stepped base out of some scrap plywood.--Mike--

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Old 08-08-2010, 05:24 PM   #3
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window box is further out then drywall


thing is it's not evenly 1/4" out.. on part of the window its flush and parts its not...


really not sure what to do.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:33 PM   #4
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window box is further out then drywall


nail the moulding to the extension jamb,shim the back of the trim where needed before you nail it to the wall...little caulk,little paint...you know the rest
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:03 PM   #5
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window box is further out then drywall


What tools do you have?
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:41 PM   #6
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window box is further out then drywall


i have the usual must haves + chop saw, skill saw.

no advanced work working stuff though or knowledge of how to use it either...
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:35 AM   #7
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window box is further out then drywall


Why not cut almost to the wall perpendicular to the window with a jigsaw as close to the corners as possible. Then pop a line between the cuts. Ajust the saw blade for slant of the seal. Cut the line. Finish with a planer flush with the wall?

Do the uprights first. Get the uprights out of the way then just pop a line from side to side for the horizonals flush with the wall. Toe kick saw might be needed for the corners of the horizonals, unless you can use a sawsall to get to them by getting as close as you can with the jig then tilting the sawsall to get the corner pieces. May have to spread a little mud to cover some damage from the sawsall.

Might be best to still leave the horizonal a little proud then flushing with a planer.

Got a belt sander? May be able to use it instead of a planer.

Last edited by boman47k; 08-09-2010 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:14 AM   #8
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window box is further out then drywall


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nail the moulding to the extension jamb,shim the back of the trim where needed before you nail it to the wall...little caulk,little paint...you know the rest

think i may go with this method... seems like it involves the least work...

i'll test it on one window first and go from there.
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Old 08-09-2010, 03:06 PM   #9
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window box is further out then drywall


If I understand this correctly, your facing will be box like with tapering/differing depths?
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:15 PM   #10
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window box is further out then drywall


multimaster or even a flush cut saw would do it. Is the wall itself straight though?
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:32 PM   #11
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multimaster or even a flush cut saw would do it. Is the wall itself straight though?
If your blades are like mine, it may take several.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:49 PM   #12
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window box is further out then drywall


Yeah, the wood cut blades for my multimaster i haven't been really impressed with however i ordered some non fein blades so we'll see how they work.

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