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-   -   window box is further out then drywall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/window-box-further-out-then-drywall-78225/)

spyd4r 08-08-2010 02:56 PM

window box is further out then drywall
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hello all, the previous owner half finished the basement and didn't work too professionally I may add.

As you can see below, parts of the window box protrude further then the drywall in numerous places.. by about 1/4"

so I can't put window trim up easily... as it either won't sit flush to the wall or the window box.

whats the easiest way to correct this?

Thanks in advance.

oh'mike 08-08-2010 04:14 PM

Obviously you will need to remove that---Might be easiest to rip it out and remake the jamb extenders.

If you have an undercutting saw like the Bosch Fine Cut you could saw it flush--At $100 or so might not be practical.

An elevated stepped router base would do the job--with a straight cutting bit.

If you have a router ,,I'll try to talk you through making a stepped base out of some scrap plywood.--Mike--

spyd4r 08-08-2010 04:24 PM

thing is it's not evenly 1/4" out.. on part of the window its flush and parts its not...


really not sure what to do.

Tom Struble 08-08-2010 05:33 PM

nail the moulding to the extension jamb,shim the back of the trim where needed before you nail it to the wall...little caulk,little paint...you know the rest:wink:

oh'mike 08-08-2010 06:03 PM

What tools do you have?

spyd4r 08-08-2010 06:41 PM

i have the usual must haves + chop saw, skill saw.

no advanced work working stuff though or knowledge of how to use it either...

boman47k 08-09-2010 07:35 AM

Why not cut almost to the wall perpendicular to the window with a jigsaw as close to the corners as possible. Then pop a line between the cuts. Ajust the saw blade for slant of the seal. Cut the line. Finish with a planer flush with the wall?

Do the uprights first. Get the uprights out of the way then just pop a line from side to side for the horizonals flush with the wall. Toe kick saw might be needed for the corners of the horizonals, unless you can use a sawsall to get to them by getting as close as you can with the jig then tilting the sawsall to get the corner pieces. May have to spread a little mud to cover some damage from the sawsall.

Might be best to still leave the horizonal a little proud then flushing with a planer.

Got a belt sander? May be able to use it instead of a planer.

spyd4r 08-09-2010 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomstruble (Post 482496)
nail the moulding to the extension jamb,shim the back of the trim where needed before you nail it to the wall...little caulk,little paint...you know the rest:wink:


think i may go with this method... seems like it involves the least work...

i'll test it on one window first and go from there.

boman47k 08-09-2010 02:06 PM

If I understand this correctly, your facing will be box like with tapering/differing depths?

gmhammes 08-10-2010 03:15 PM

multimaster or even a flush cut saw would do it. Is the wall itself straight though?

boman47k 08-10-2010 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmhammes (Post 483584)
multimaster or even a flush cut saw would do it. Is the wall itself straight though?

If your blades are like mine, it may take several.

gmhammes 08-10-2010 03:49 PM

Yeah, the wood cut blades for my multimaster i haven't been really impressed with however i ordered some non fein blades so we'll see how they work.


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