What's the trick to get drywall screws all the way in?

cody21 · 07-04-2009, 02:07 PM

This has been very frustrating. We installed Greenboard in addition to Cement BB .... we used the prescribed screws for each type board. We used a ratcheting type of cordless drill to screw in the screws.

We only seem to be able to get about 80% of the screws actually embedded deeply enough that they are not at least partially exposed above the plane of the drywall. Even when manually trying to "finish the job" with a screw driver we just can't seem to get these fully embedded. This of course makes for a difficult time or applying joint compound to cover the screw hole and make me a bit concerned of the final result after primed and painted.

What are we doing wrong? Are screws the wrong way to do with Drywall and/or Cement BB ????

Thanks all.

evapman · 07-04-2009, 02:26 PM

try a screw gun like this, it's cheap and good enough for a DIY that won't use it allot, http://www.nextag.com/Buffalo-Tool-s...C1685E37160470

or they also make bit/tips for drywall screws that can be used in a regular corded / cordless drill, but if i understand you right you used a ratcheting screwdriver?
it will need a motor to drive screws correctly.
Good luck with your project.

cody21 · 07-04-2009, 02:31 PM

Thank you !

Yoyizit · 07-04-2009, 04:23 PM

Try waxing the screws first. You could also use bar soap but it absorbs moisture from the air. The bugle head screws do push back at you when used in drywall.

**Gary in WA** · 07-04-2009, 06:53 PM

Are you using your drill with the clutch set on drill?

Are you using a below-flush drill attachment to set the screw?

What length screw are you using? Are the drywall screws coarse thread for wood?

What size battery drill, and is it fully charged? Be safe, G

wrangler · 07-04-2009, 09:18 PM

The first question that comes to my mind is, why are you installing greenboard over CBB? I'm sure there must be a good reason, and maybe it's because I've been working in the sun all day, but I can't think of why you would need to do this? And as stated above, the first thing I would check is if the clutch is set hard enough to drive the screws in, or that your drill has enough torque to drive the screw through both the drywall and the CBB.

cody21 · 07-05-2009, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBAR in WA

Are you using your drill with the clutch set on drill?

Are you using a below-flush drill attachment to set the screw?

What length screw are you using? Are the drywall screws coarse thread for wood?

What size battery drill, and is it fully charged? Be safe, G

- It is set to "ratchet", if that is the right term. It "slips" when it reaches a certain point. Usually not recessed in far enough. Then we use a screw driver to set it deeper -- but these darn screws just don't all seem to want to go in below the wall board.

- the 'standard' wall board screws for greenboard & CBB. 1 5/8", I think.

- a Craftsman drill, fully charged.

cody21 · 07-05-2009, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrangler

The first question that comes to my mind is, why are you installing greenboard over CBB? I'm sure there must be a good reason, and maybe it's because I've been working in the sun all day, but I can't think of why you would need to do this? And as stated above, the first thing I would check is if the clutch is set hard enough to drive the screws in, or that your drill has enough torque to drive the screw through both the drywall and the CBB.

Sorry, I guesss I wasn't clear. We put up CBB as well as Greenboard in the room ... not on top of each other. the CBB is around the shower stall, the greenboard is in the other areas of the room.

**Gary in WA** · 07-05-2009, 04:22 PM

1/2" wallboard can use 1-1/4" screws, minimum. Take your drill off clutch and set it on drill. No clutch, ratchet. Buy a special $2 drill bit for drywall screws with a preset depth. Or buy one of these: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-70-DW2043%20Z
Which is a waste of money, compared to the cheaper one, while both set the screw in perfectly whatever the pressure- within reason. Yes, I have the Craftsman set of 5, on a shelf, like brand new, for 5 years now. lol Be safe, G

cody21 · 07-06-2009, 10:55 AM

Thanks GBAR ,.... I'll revise my method and see if the screws actually go in farther.

**Gary in WA** · 07-06-2009, 06:46 PM

Here is that little bugger: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...00547-353-DWS2

Be safe, G

InPhase277 · 07-06-2009, 10:02 PM

Everybody stand back, I'm an electrician! Seriously though, you may have to back the screw out a bit and attack it again. And unless you are completely incompetent with a screw gun, there really is no reason to use the clutch torque settings, in my humble opinion only. I know when to release the trigger.

lairdness · 08-09-2009, 01:30 AM

There are 2 possible issues....1 is power...the other is accuracy...if you'r hitting the stud and it's just not going deep enough (which I doubt because most modern screwguns have the power) then try an Impact driver! I LOVE ....LOVE....did I say love?.....my Makita BTD142HW
2.2 Lbs of unstoppable, extremely manageable, fast rpm power...I got it in the LCT200W set which is on sale for $200 on a pretty regular basis.

Other possibility...you're missing the stud making the screw head spin on the outside surface of the board because it has nothing to bite on and pull it into the green board. It's they are spinning and difficult to screw out again that's what's happening....to get them out use a very light touch or something to wedge under the head like a flat prybar

Note, it's important not to go too deep and tear throught the paper because you lose something like 50% of the holding power of that particular screw

good luck

eidol · 08-09-2009, 12:32 PM

You should be using a electric drywall screw gun it has an adjustable end that will dipple the drywall. cordless screw guns won't do this they just drive the screw below the paper and won't hold if you tear the paper. Are you using drywall glue ? if you are just nail the edges and put one screw in field [in the center] of each stud when the glue dries there no need for fasteners. if you us nails buy the cement coated one not the ring shanks and buy a drywall hammer to drive them this will leave indent to filled with joint compound. If you are having problems with the screws just wait to you try to finish it. good luck

If you think that you are going to have pro finish it they will charge you more if they have redo it and probably won't warranty their work

4just1don · 08-10-2009, 12:05 AM

another thought,,and I have BEEN there,,,you MAY have OLD DRY studs/joists which are about rock hard. hard to drive anything into them. If so slightly shorter screws can help. wax them and letter rip,,,thats what old toilet wax is for