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-   -   Visible wrinkle in tape (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/visible-wrinkle-tape-64052/)

Chemist1961 02-10-2010 06:53 AM

Visible wrinkle in tape
 
I missed this area, but posted in construction by mistake. I have a 3" wrinkle in a 35 year old tape joint highly visible in my foyer on my stairwell. The entire seam is visible approx 12' long. I don't think feathering will cure it. Should I attempt to peal it and should I replace with fibreglass tape or what would be best

Dairylander 02-10-2010 09:24 AM

Just cut out those three inches with a knife.
Re-tape, mud, sand, paint, done.

Chemist1961 02-10-2010 09:33 AM

DONE ! that fast onto next project....you sound like my wife!:laughing: Sorry I am a perfectionist married to a pesemist with short patience. How about the other 11.75 feet? Same thing can I peel this or will I cut .
Thanks

Dairylander 02-10-2010 09:41 AM

If the wrinkle is only three inches, why are you concerned with the other 11 feet?

retiree 02-10-2010 10:30 AM

Just cut out the bad 3" piece and retape with paper. Then use a wide knife to feather out the entire seam. Use multiple thin coats rather then trying to cover it with one coat. A light sanding between each coat until you're happy with the results. You then have to prime the new spackle area before you repaint. I don't recommend mesh tape. Paper tape is thinner and actually stronger.

Chemist1961 02-10-2010 11:29 AM

The entire seam is bulged at the center of the tape line. Concave I would feather but this bulge is pronounced entire wall length

Dairylander 02-10-2010 12:34 PM

I think you already know that you're fixing something that ain't broke, so I won't get preachy.
Attach a random orbital sander to shop vac and start sanding.
It gets problematic if you expose the old tape, then you'll have to re-mud.
Or you could cheat a little and just paint that whole wall with some textured paint.

bjbatlanta 02-10-2010 03:28 PM

You need to take a 10" or 12" knife and apply a couple of layers of compound on either side of the joint to make it wider, thus making the "bulge" less noticeable IF it's just the tape. You don't want to leave any mud on the actual center of the joint. If the bulge is actually in the drywall and not just the tape, you'll need to tear out the bad section of drywall and replace. I did just such a repair about a month ago. The drywall was actually bowed off of the framing members over an inch.This was a basement stairwell in a two story house so the problem was, likely, much worse than yours. Basically what happens is the framing lumber "shrinks" as it dries out. A particular house may be framed with lumber that with a high moisture content to begin with, stored on the lumber yard in the rain, on the job in the rain, framed in rainy weather, etc. Then the heat comes on and everything dries out. If the studs, plates, joists, etc. all "shrink" even 1/8" in a 2 or 3 story structure...... The drywall has no choice but to bow off of the wall. Often if the problem is minor, the lighting in the stairwell shining down on the joint will make it appear worse due to "shadowing". You may get by with just pulling the top side of the joint to eliminate the "shadow" from overhead (or sconce) lighting....


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