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Old 10-31-2008, 01:43 PM   #16
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


Got it! I guess I wasn't quite "seeing it" clearly. The only one who can justify "overkill" is you.......but it does sound like more trouble than it's worth.
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:28 AM   #17
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


$15 is too much. Sorry, but poor excuse.
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Old 11-01-2008, 03:34 AM   #18
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$15 is too much. Sorry, but poor excuse.
$15 IS too much!!! what do you mean, poor excuse?

i'm sorry we're poor... GOOD excuse!

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Old 11-01-2008, 09:57 AM   #19
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


Oh, but you have money to cover the ceiling in expensive wood product to hide your mistake. Where are the priorties.
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:31 AM   #20
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


perhaps i should elucidate... =o)
panels - bought at auction for $10.00 for 200 approximately 15"x61" in size. most in excellent condition, some crappy pieces.
walnut strips - created from my woods costing me time and labor is all.
1 gallon polyurethane - $20.00
screws - maybe $10.00
so a 300 sq. ft. one-of-a-kind ceiling for about $40.00 seems to me to be a GOOD thing. agreed?
and it wasn't about covering up a mistake, it was just so i wouldn't have to move that piece to the next joist over and do two half sheets on either side of it. that would have worked too but was more work. i planned from the start to do the ceiling this way, so as long as there's no fire safety issue or code problem, i'm ok with it.

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Old 11-01-2008, 10:43 AM   #21
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


like the rock guys said, it's no problem so I wouldn't worry about it regardless of the cost. If it was free yet there was no problem with hanging it backwards, I still wouldn;t fix it.

being frugal isn't being cheap. It's merely being wise with your assets.
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:51 AM   #22
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yup! today i'll be working on the center of the room access hole/fan-light area. i decided to drywall the inside of the box i created.
now to do a drywall sheet with wood and support framing from some 4" walnut to make a cover. const. adhesive will hold it together, and screws will mount it via frame to ceiling, then i start the strips! woohoo!

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Old 11-01-2008, 01:51 PM   #23
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Hang it backwards and glaze coat the whole piece to slick it out. The back paper it much "coarser" than the face paper. Otherwise, no harm, no foul. I've done it a time or two myself, usually just pulling the measurement from the wrong side of the board in a hurry. If I have enough rock, I'll re-cut. If it's a toss between finishing up or going to get one more sheet, I'll hang it backwards....
I agree it happens every now and then no big deal I don't know how true it is but I been told to hang upside down when going over it with plaster,strucktolite regards Rob
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Old 11-01-2008, 01:54 PM   #24
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


good point... i wondered about that too, wouldn't plaster stick better to a rougher surface?

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Old 11-01-2008, 01:59 PM   #25
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Not sure if that's the case or to eliminate the tapered edge..........or both.
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Old 11-01-2008, 03:19 PM   #26
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good point... i wondered about that too, wouldn't plaster stick better to a rougher surface?

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You use a different board when plastering. Blueboard.The paper is designed to absorb the water and not cause a problem and it is designed to allow the plaster to hold.
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:15 PM   #27
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upside-down drywall on ceiling?


Nap is absolutely correct, there is a specific type of board for plaster. I was speaking more in terms of a repair where you don't have access to blueboard. Naturally, it would be best to use the proper "backer" board. Thanks for the clarification......
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:14 PM   #28
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ok, i said i'd keep you guys posted, here is pic of the ceiling started--> My $40 (300 sq. ft.) Homemade Birch/Walnut Ceiling

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