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-   -   Took down bathroom wall tile... what's optimal from here? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/took-down-bathroom-wall-tile-whats-optimal-here-141515/)

roasted 04-25-2012 04:40 PM

Took down bathroom wall tile... what's optimal from here?
 
Our home was built in 58. Judging by the floor around the toilet that I just replaced today, I have high doubt anything was ever remodeled. I'm having a hard time identifying what little bit of exposed innards there are from the bathroom wall tile I just tore down. I'd like to say plaster (unless that sounds strange a late 50's house would have plaster). There are some areas, some as big as my fist, that came off the wall with the tile thanks to an absolute ton of glue behind it.

So now I'm wondering, is this a job I can even patch job? I don't even know how to go forward from here. Even if I patch what holes there are, the areas that were tiled we want to paint (which of course aren't smooth due to the adhesive used to attach the tiles to the wall), so I guess my only option would be to rip the walls down to bare 2x4's, drywall with waterproof/mold resistant drywall, then paint, no?

My thought process is telling me rip everything down and start fresh, but I'm also not a professional by any means, so I wanted to hear some opinions about whether or not that made sense or not.

gregzoll 04-25-2012 05:55 PM

If you take it down to the bones, it will allow you to update the wiring and fix any plumbing.

roasted 04-25-2012 06:01 PM

The house was done (pardon my lack of proper terminology) 3 wire-wiring, yet 2 prong outlets. So the wiring has a ground wire in it, it just requires me to take them out and pop in a 3 prong outlet. I've heard this was common in the late 50s.

Taking wiring out of the equation, does it change things at all? I'm okay with redoing the walls. I want it done right. I just want to make sure I know which avenue is best to go down.

coderguy 04-25-2012 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roasted (Post 907533)
The house was done (pardon my lack of proper terminology) 3 wire-wiring, yet 2 prong outlets. So the wiring has a ground wire in it, it just requires me to take them out and pop in a 3 prong outlet. I've heard this was common in the late 50s.

Taking wiring out of the equation, does it change things at all? I'm okay with redoing the walls. I want it done right. I just want to make sure I know which avenue is best to go down.

Nope, gregzoll is spot on. Tear it down, address anything in the walls you want to (like insulation on any outer walls); and put green board up. Mold resistant drywall isn't waterproof :-)

roasted 04-25-2012 06:50 PM

Ah hah, so green board is the name of the stuff I need? I knew there was a "bathroom safe drywall" to use but I forgot the name, which is why I slipped in the water resistant drywall comment. ;)

Well, if you guys think that's the best way to go, it's time to bust out the crowbar. Like I said, I want it done right, even if it requires tons more work. Doing it right now ensures more relaxation later, eh? :P

gregzoll 04-25-2012 07:22 PM

Green, Blue, Purple, Yellow, as long as it states that it is mold resistant, it will work. When we gutted our bath, it took about 22 55gal heavy ply contractor bags, dbl bagged.

roasted 04-25-2012 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregzoll (Post 907591)
Green, Blue, Purple, Yellow, as long as it states that it is mold resistant, it will work. When we gutted our bath, it took about 22 55gal heavy ply contractor bags, dbl bagged.

I don't mean to sound like an idiot, but can you elaborate a bit here as I'm not sure what you're referring to exactly. Is green/whatever board not structured just like drywall, where it's a solid object you simply screw onto the studs? I'm just having an issue understanding how "55 gallon bags" would apply... kind of scurring me into thinking I'm missing a critical step here! :laughing:

gregzoll 04-25-2012 07:54 PM

All the colors I named ARE drywall. Ecery company uses a particular color or shade just for marketing. LaFarge Hreen colored Mold resistant is a darker shade than the competitor. The yellow uses a fiberglass mesh in the paper covering, and so on.

We did not have a dumpster, but had access to one across town and had to haul the devris in the bags. That is where they come in.

roasted 04-25-2012 07:59 PM

Oh, durp. I thought you were saying you got stuff in bags to mix and put on the walls. That's why I was totally "What the?!" :laughing:

I'm not sure what we're going to do. Fortunately my other half's parents have a truck that's a spare vehicle, so we're just filling it now. I believe the local dump still does 25 dollar "dump anything you can fit in your vehicle as long as it doesn't weigh an insane amount" deal... so I hope, anyway...

Blondesense 04-25-2012 09:23 PM

Keep in mind bathroom walls and shower walls are two different animals.
If you're talking bathroom walls you're good to go with the above suggestions.
If you're talking re-tiling the shower walls do more research into approved ways to build and waterproof.

roasted 04-25-2012 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blondesense (Post 907701)
Keep in mind bathroom walls and shower walls are two different animals.
If you're talking bathroom walls you're good to go with the above suggestions.
If you're talking re-tiling the shower walls do more research into approved ways to build and waterproof.

For the shower walls, which I haven't touched yet, I was planning on getting some sort of 5 ft high type of plastic casing to put around the shower stall area. It's what my other half had at her old apartment, what my parents have, etc. I think it's just really simple and looks like it'll do the job.

Kind of like this, except 2x as long since there will be a tub at the bottom.

http://www.arpbathtubs.com/files/lib...907a05fde9.jpg

Would that be okay? If I use something like that, would I still just use the green board as the base underneath?

gregzoll 04-26-2012 07:48 AM

We used one of those five piece kits, when we redid our bath, due to it was a emergency fix, and did not have the money or willpower to pull out the old Cast Iron tub, so left it. We had to do our bathtub part first, and did the rest a couple of weeks later. I ended up just using Green Board all around, left the ceiling alone and just skim coated it, in places where it valleyed, due to how they applied the plaster over the Rocklathe.

We have talked about having Rebath come and take down the five piece surround and just place a insert over the tub, and put up nicer surround walls. Your best bet if you are taking out the tub, is to use a three piece, or if you can swing it a two piece. Also due to you will find that you will be pulling the toilet a lot if this is the only bath, use a Waxless ring like I did.

For the floor, I ended up using Georgia Pacific's DensShield Tile backer. The running joke is, that due to I put mud down first, then screwed the DensSheild, the floor will still be standing when the house falls down, due to it is solid. Our house is over 70 years old, so I know where you are coming when dealing with old homes.

roasted 04-26-2012 11:36 PM

This may come as a dumb question, but hey, I'd rather ask and know vs not know and find out the hard way. I take it that it would be intelligent to redo the ceiling too, no? The ceiling isn't being altered in any way... just the walls due to the tile transition. But with the tools here and the walls being torn apart, maybe it's a good time?

gregzoll 04-27-2012 07:30 AM

If the ceiling is fine, and you are able to access from above for wirimg, leave alone.

roasted 04-28-2012 09:50 AM

The only thing I'm confused about the ceiling is whether it's proper to just cut the metal sheath that seems to be connecting the two panes. It has a metal grate-like run going through the edges, and it's within the wall panel as well as the ceiling panel. I could use wire cutters and cut it, then take new green board right to the top corner and spackle the corner of it off. Would that be okay?


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