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Old 09-16-2013, 07:48 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
Any predictions on when or how soon it will crack or the paper will separate?

I'm going to save a copy of this link and update everyone in a few weeks (months/years).

If some of you are right, then the update should be in a few weeks...if your wrong....well, the update might take awhile....
I like this idea.

it's an attic space with batting insulation, the wood looks time tested and blocked real good. .........I never spotted whether you are texturing or not?
either way ....I dont think it will even make it to a primer coat of paint. Reason being if you dont texture, you have to sand the joints that run into that angle. the top side where all the angles meet on the wall specifically. once you apply pressure to sand, the paper will start pulling loose. The more I think about it, the more I tend to seeing this happen even just after the tape coat. wiping your tape tight could pull the paper right off the rock.
I want to see a picture of that intersection while the paint is still wet with a 500watt light shining down wind. make me a believer

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Old 09-16-2013, 10:08 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
I don't know if it will crack or not, but I've seen joints like that crack when taped the standard method. It's all about framing deflection- if the wood moves-it'll crack
Thats why on an agle like this you need to use straightflex tape over regular.And it will give you a nice straight line
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:58 AM   #18
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Cool.......
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:38 AM   #19
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cool as in dont try it, or cool as in Wow this will work? because it wont work. Straightflex all the way...do it right.
I also dis-agree, to some extent, with the reason straightflex turns loose. You're right about wood movement, but even the makers of Straightflex seen their flaw and fixed it. They came out with a revamped version. It now comes with perferations that "hold" the mud. You have to scrape the tits off before coating the stuff but it holds much much better than the older version.
still waiting for the pics...be humble bro, there's people that might actually try this, and that IMO, is reckless if you keep endorsing this Idea. dont take any offense. It's just bad practice
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:59 AM   #20
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I applaud your clever pioneering. If it all ends up good you can take a well deserved bow. It it goes to s#!t then its is the cat's fault.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:50 AM   #21
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cool as in dont try it, or cool as in Wow this will work
Actually it was cool as in I looked at the date and saw it was from 2011 so I said well Where's the update, but then I realized 2011 was the date the last guy that commented became a member so I couldn't figure out how to delete my post so I edited it and I didn't have anything productive to say so I just wrote cool. Lol.

But cool if it works but it sounds like it won't from what most are saying
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:01 AM   #22
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I'll be taping and mudding next week...so I'll let you know how it works out...

As and FYI....there are a couple spots I had to cut...main issue being that it was a difficult angle and I didn't get the folded portion cut right...as a result...I had some paper pull...

So, yes, things have to line up and sized properly....if the cut on the back side is not in the right spot, you will get the paper pulling away....

But still....considering how much I have to do...the parts that did work is saving me a ton of time.
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:07 AM   #23
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I know sawing is frowned upon for the obvious reasons, but in this case, could you get a nearly perfect line if you used some kind of thin kerf saw instead of a knife and snapping, and set the depth for 3/8"?
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:21 AM   #24
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I know sawing is frowned upon for the obvious reasons, but in this case, could you get a nearly perfect line if you used some kind of thin kerf saw instead of a knife and snapping, and set the depth for 3/8"?
I use a straight edge....and make multiple passes with the blade...my line is straight...as well as the break....the issue is that if you look at the angles...if your split (break) is not exactly on the angle of the wood, one side gets pushed out relative to the other one and the paper pulls up..

Go up and look at the one pic where I show the edge of one sheet...

It's easy to line up when one side is not too large...not so easy if both sides are big.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:22 AM   #25
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Didn't know you had multiple threads on same subject so here it is again;On another note.... before you drywall the lid/walls, pull the stapling flanges (leave just enough to hold it up) from the sides of the studs (inset stapling) because it creates air channels there forcing convective looping and the empty spaces give heat/air transfer to the ridge from the lower areas. Pages 45-48;http://www.buildingscienceconsulting...Measure_Up.pdf

In order for air-permeable fiberglass (creates many small dead-air spaces) to be most effective, it needs full contact with the drywall; pp.2 "Making contact"- http://www.advancedinsulationinc.com...Insulation.pdf this will stop any air movement there giving a reduction in R-value. It requires an air barrier next to it. ADA the drywall for optimum performance; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...rtight-drywall

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/

The drywall material itself is the air barrier, with a gap at the hinge of the slopes, the paper alone is left to stop diffusion/infiltration/exfiltration. At least reinforce the joint with additional paper tape/mud because the material now has a void area which is the weakest link of the continuity of the air barrier. The hot outside/attic air will condense on the thin paper joint with the AC on, causing wetting; especially as your thermal barrier doesn't follow the air barrier but continues up the slope leaving a big attic area with extra heat from the air spaces left in the cavity corners depositing there. Is the asphalt coated paper code required for your location? Fig.11; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...vapor-barriers

Just back-fill some mud in the open crack before next sheet...

I've only done a half dozen sloping joints, though I used a long hand rasp to bevel the raw edge for a better fit on all. Once you cut the paper straight, the planning is easier.

Gary
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 10-04-2013 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:22 PM   #26
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Old thread but I thought I'd provide an update of the end result.

The above works.....with in limitations.

Here are some pics....

Upstairs master bedroom. You would be hard pressed to find any seams.
I had one spot where the line was not perfectly straight. I put a shallow coat of mud in the crease which 'softened' the line and made the defect disappear.



This is a short section of space between two doors....a tough area to work in. My method worked great hear. I really didn't need to put mud over the screws since they will be covered by molding.





So....in summary

It works a lot better if you make the cut really deep....at least half way through the thickness of the drywall. That way, when you break it, the line is straight.

It's hard to control on long runs. Just too much room for errors. It works best for tight spots and short sections.

I wouldn't hesitate to do it again
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:31 AM   #27
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All I am thinking is how the hell did you get that piece up there? Were the 5.5" cut edges just hanging by the paper, or did you have help holding up both edges so they wouldn't be weakened by hanging by just the paper??

I am a CPA so I won't weigh in on whether this works or fails. However, you did save $2.49 by not having to throw those 5.5" pieces away so the CPA in me says two thumbs up.

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Old 06-20-2014, 11:06 AM   #28
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Great Thread. Since I'm a beginner, just curious for those that would prefer to use straight0-flex for this, which straight flex product would have worked in this application? I see many different types at HD. Thanks!

Very clever work ddawg, I've always wondered how guys handled those offset inside corner angles on walls. 33.5 degrees or otherwise.
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:09 PM   #29
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I'm curious... Who did the insulation?
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:54 PM   #30
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All I am thinking is how the hell did you get that piece up there? Were the 5.5" cut edges just hanging by the paper, or did you have help holding up both edges so they wouldn't be weakened by hanging by just the paper??

I am a CPA so I won't weigh in on whether this works or fails. However, you did save $2.49 by not having to throw those 5.5" pieces away so the CPA in me says two thumbs up.

B
I did it all by myself. I just let them hang....the paper is actually quite strong. I had run a chalk line to make sure it all lined up. Anchored one corner....then lined up the other....screwed it into place.

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Originally Posted by hboogz View Post
Great Thread. Since I'm a beginner, just curious for those that would prefer to use straight0-flex for this, which straight flex product would have worked in this application? I see many different types at HD. Thanks!

Very clever work ddawg, I've always wondered how guys handled those offset inside corner angles on walls. 33.5 degrees or otherwise.
Those odd corners are just hard...period. Not have to mud them was a great time saver. Even though I did toss some mud on them to soften the edge, that work was a lot easier (only 2 passes) vs the 4-5 passes it takes using tape.

As far as corners go....I doubt I'll ever use the paper corners again. Metal takes a little longer to install...but, gives you a much nicer edge to work with. It's too easy for the paper/metal edging to slip or not fit the way you want it.

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I'm curious... Who did the insulation?
A licensed company in El Segundo....

If you see issues....remember, I'm in Southern California....until recently, they didn't even insulate the walls on houses.

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